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I am simply saying what I would personally do given a similar situation, it is up to the OP to decide what they want to do. They are not necessarily 'wrong' since the equipment to do what they suggest is commonly available and doesn't go against any regs. However I personally would think it is...

I am thinking about it in electrical terms, ignoring the instructions for now. It is just conceivable the 3A fuse on the permanent Line supply (i.e. what the motor runs off) might provide protection to the motor. The switch Line is just a signal wire, it does nothing else.

Indeed, however if that were the rationale, it seems to me more sensible to simply require a 6A mcb rather than a 3A fuse, which I agree can be a faff at times. We have a similar issue with ovens, they often want a 16A fuse/MCB, this isn't a standard oven/hob circuit in the UK. The general...

I will agree that electrically, a 3A fuse is likely to be of no use. But the regs do say “The installation of electrical equipment shall take into account manufacturers’ instructions”. So quite simply where practical and reasonable, I will follow them, if there is no reason not to. Tin hat on...

Why? Would you also not follow the instructions for, say, a smart light switch, which might be required to have 6A fuse protection, and just stick it on a 32A circuit? Why not follow the instructions when they are perfectly sensible, and not hard to achieve. Granted there are examples of...

My thoughts also, which is why I was surprised to see the instructions want the SL fused at 3A too!

Agreed it probably wouldn't hold up if you argued with them but generally for the cost and difficulty of getting a 3A fuse in for a fan I'll just do it. Funnily enough I had an inline fan fail within a year, the problem was a piece of copper on the motor windings had broken, can only assume it...

Can you access the loop in wiring to the bathroom? Looks like to truly comply with instructions the only options would be to install a 3A FCU at this point so all the bathroom wiring is fused down to 3A, or indeed replace the circuit breaker. Both these options seem overcomplicated, the...

I'm not understanding why the light would need fusing down, surely the fan has no relation to the light fitting? EDIT: I missed a detail on the diagram, the manufacturer essentially wants the Line AND switched Line to the fan to be protected by a 3A fuse, that's not something I've seen in any...

If the manufacturer says there should be a 3A fuse it is best to put one in, if you try and claim on the warranty and haven't followed their instructions they will probably refuse. The way to do it is very straightforward, just replace the fan isolator with a fused fan isolator like this...

Based on the picture it appears to be designed as a double insulated fitting. I would question that looking at the clearly non double insulated L&N wires attached to the transformer. Did the light come from a reputable source?

https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/eveready-ultra-bright-led-chaser-lights-1000pk-cool-white-387035 Got a few sets of these myself in various colours, have lasted a few winters outside already and still going strong. 80m of lights. No consumer fairy/xmas lights will last forever outside...

I'd really recommend throwing them away they are are huge electric shock risk, running a dodgy 230V fairy light set outside is just asking for trouble. As mentioned above the wires are likely far too thin with bad insulation, and any damage that occurs leaves a live wire sitting in a hedge. On...

Judging by the first pic it looks like a mess of wiring has been shoved in behind the box, obviously the wrong way to do it. That is probably where the CPCs will be. Needs an electrician to sort it out really, dealing with busy light switch wiring can be difficult without experience.

That's definitely a sensible thought, and if you were installing a flex for the hob yourself you may well go for something larger than 2.5, but the flex the manufacturer installs is rated for the maximum power draw of the appliance, now I know 6.5kw is just over the rating for 2.5mm flex...

The MCB is there to protect the circuit cable (your 6mm t&e) not the appliance, the 2.5 flex on the oven and hob can be considered part of the appliance since it is pre installed by the manufacturer. They are also fixed loads, so cannot pull anymore power than their rating. Any fault on the 2.5...

I doubt you will find that sold, far easier to buy a new integrated unit such as this one: https://www.downlights.co.uk/led-triangle-under-cabinet-light-12v-leyton.html#led-triangle-under-cabinet-light-12v-4000k

As you mention yourself a lot of the time damp/humidity only comes from peoples daily activities, cooking, showering, drying clothes etc. If a property has rooms on the smaller side and poor or no ventilation, this will build up very quickly, so the only real solution is to create ventilation...

Thats a fair point but I would imagine a powerful inline unit would be more than sufficient. The way I see it unless the two fans have a very similar length of ducting to the Y point, (assuming they have the same airflow l/s in the first place) one will overpower the other and cause problems...

If both are running they will both be less effective than with only one running, you can only get a certain volume of air through a 100mm vent hole (assuming the roof vent is a 100mm vent)! Also I would imagine the fan motors would be stressed more as they effectively would have a restriction in...