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You could set the Hive into "gravity mode", then when heating is set to come on it will also turn the hot water on automatically. To do this first turn the power off wait 10 seconds then turn it back on. Now press the left hand silver button on the receiver for 10 seconds and the top green light...

Both the timer and stat need to be on for you to get heat. You haven't got any on times set on your clock for it to work on the timed setting. You have to push the little pegs in for the on times that you want. If you set the timer to on once the stat is upto temperature the green light should...

That all looks good. Only thing you've missed is the neutral and earth to the boiler.

The valve will stay in the heating position until there is a call for hot water or the power is cut. So assuming it is wired right then the problem is either your timer or the cylinder thermostat. Depending on what type of cylinder stat you have some have got on over- heat cut out that can be...

How long have you waited before you decided it wasn't working? With that boiler it goes thorough a 20 minute purge cycle when you power it up, so the heating will not come on until it has done that.

There are 2 screws under the clock. Assuming you have got the dual channel version of the Hive which you should have then. L-L N-N 1-1 if there is a wire in 1 There shouldn't be a wire in 2 3-3 4-4 Then the wires in 5 and 6 are not needed anymore.

It can be done you need some 5 core flex. Connect live, neutral and earth on the Hive to L N E on the orange plug in the boiler. 3 on the Hive to HW, and 4 to CH on the yellow plug. Then you will need to disconnect the ribbon cable behind the clock from the plug that it is plugged into...

I would install the Hive receiver in the cylinder cupboard with some 5 core flex, or 2 x 3 core. The neutral connected to the terminal with all the blue wires in the connection box, and the live to the terminal with the 3 brown and 3 grey wires in it. Number 3 on the Hive would connect to...

I take it that the thermostat is faulty if so then why not just use the thermostat out of the unused one?

Could it be that the cylinder is already up to temperature? Try turning the cylinder thermostat up, but remember to turn it back down after. If it still doesn't work is the wire in terminal 3 of the Hive connected properly.

YOU said you had disconnected the room stat. I have twice and others have told you to link terminals 1 and 3 in the honeywell wiring centre where you disconnected the room stat from. I can't be any clearer than that!!

Yes. In the honeywell wiring centre where you disconnected the room stat.

Where you have disconnected the room stat wires in the wiring centre you need to link terminals 1 and 3 for the heating to work.

It depends which version of Nest you have got. If it is the Nest E, then what you have written is correct. If it is the Nest Gen 3 then that does require mains.

Yes, but it will probably have 6 wires instead of 5. You will have a white wire which you will probably not need just put a connector on the end of it to make it safe.

42 :sneaky:

The wires you disconnected from the RT1 would have been live and neutral, and 2 switch wires. The 2 switch wires need joining together with a connector.

The other pump looks like a brass pump which is used to circulate the domestic hot water around your house so that it doesn't take long to come out of the hot water tap when you turn it on.

You can have as many nests as you want. I added 3 to a house that already had 8 fitted. Add you say you will need 2 one to control the hot water and one heating zone and another to control the other heating zone. The heat links would both be installed in the airing cupboard and wired into the...

If you connect it to the HW it will only heat up while the water is heating, so once the cylinder is up to temperature the cylinder thermostat will turn it off and your towel radiator will stop heating up to.