Search results

The orange from the valve and the call from the cylinder stat connect to the RT terminal on the X1 plug on the boiler.

So 3 on the nest should go to the white on the 3 port valve. 4 on the nest to the grey on the valve and satisfied on the cylinder stat. 6 on the nest to common on the cylinder stat. That just leaves the orange on the valve and call on the cylinder stat, which should both be connected to the...

4 is HW OFF 6 is HW ON So if you have done it like you say they are the wrong way round.

Have you removed the 24v link on the boiler circuit board?

The yellow wire isn't an earth. It's the switched live, it should go to 3 and the red wire to L

You need a link between L and 1 in the receiver.

The pump has to run with the gas boiler. As the name suggests it pumps the hot water, that the boiler heats around the pipes which in turn heat up the water on your cylinder.

Your boiler and pump both use electricity when running as well as the boiler using gas. So when it fires up both will go up on your smart meter.

Yes it can. Looking at the wiring it is almost certainly a Y plan system. Both blacks in N to N on Nest heat link. Both red in L to L Red in 1 to 4 Blue in 3 to 6 Yellow in 4 to 3 Then you need to put a link in from L to 2 and from 2 to 5. You might find it easier to put one of the reds in L...

Even with the built in programmer? To the OP press the left hand button on the programmer that says select once this should stop it. And as I said the receiver is built into that programmer on the front of the boiler.

That programmer (DT10rf) is for the preheat on the hot water. You have it set to constant so it will always be on. But having said that the preheat should only run fit a few minutes every hour or so, then stop. It is also the receiver for the wireless controller for the heating.

It depends on what make the valve is. Honeywell and Drayton don't, but Danfoss valves do.

Looks okay to me. You can test it by joining the brown and black wires together where the switch will be going. Because after all, that's all that a switch does.

Okay your old clock was a 2 channel clock so it's a bit different to the Hive. What you need to do is put the black wire in terminal 3, the grey wire (which won't be doing anything) in terminal 4. Then you need to put a short piece of wire in to link L and terminal 1. What have you done with...

I didn't get onto it that you had removed a thermostat. As Chris pointed out you can't just remove it you need to join the live and switched wires together to complete the circuit. Also as others have asked can you confirm that you have the single channel Hive receiver.

Move the black wire that is currently in terminal 4 to terminal 1. Done.

I don't!!

There is a neutral connected to the valve, you can see the blue wire connected in the middle of the wiring centre!

He has 2 x 2 port valves. The Danfoss one he shows wired into the wiring centre for the heating, and he says that he has a honeywell one at the cylinder. It just sounds like a standard S plan to me.

The Hive dual channel receiver will just replace the existing clock the connections are all the same. To do away with the thermostat you need to disconnect the brown wire in number 2 and the grey in number 4 and the black wire that is also in the same cable. Then move the blue wire with red...