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I fit them for British Gas I've done a few thousand now. Very rarely have problems with signal unless it's a massive house. If you do have problems you can get a signal booster.

The receiver is not wired into the boiler, it controls the motorised valve.

Why? There are not enough wires in WC1. Just put it where the old hot water clock was.

You don't need to touch WC1. Fit your new Hive receiver where the old HW clock is. Connect the wires from the old clock to the same terminals on the Hive. L-L N-N 1-1 hot water off Nothing connected to 2 3-3 hot water on Now disconnect the old room stat red, yellow and blue wires in WC2. All you...

Old. New. 1. = Common 2. =1. 3. =2.

If you remove the receiver from the backplate does the heating go off? Did you blow the fuse in the spur at any point? It all looks to be wired right out could be a faulty receiver. But out of the over a thousand I have fitted I've never had a faulty one out of the box. It is a single channel...

The fuse is circled in yellow. Use a screwdriver to turn it. You have probably connected the thermostat wrong and blown it.

You can tell if it is in gravity mode, the top light will be blue instead of green. That is the only way it would have worked that I can think of.

So the heating is on constant? You need to remove the red wire in the boiler plug linking 0v and 24v. And as Ian says link L and 1 on the Hive.

A to 1 B to 3 But it doesn't really matter which way round it's just a switch.

If it is wired like your second diagram then yes change the wires in 3 and 6 around. That should cure it.

As Picasso suggests you have got 3 and 6 on the nest the wrong way round.

@stem it is a DPC (dual channel programmer) as the OP said, they look the same but the WPT1 would be showing the current temperature and set temperature as well. To OP these clocks like most digital programmers only have 3 on/off settings for each day. Do you not have a room thermostat to...

You can use a dual channel Hive, it is wired into the boilermate. Look on page 25 of the instructions that you have a link to, it shows you how to wire it up there. You would also need to disconnect the existing room stat and link L2 and SL-R where you disconnected it in the boilermate.

2 is NEUTRAL 1 is LIVE 3 is switched live So 1 to A and 3 to B and make 2 safe If you wire it as advised above you will blow the fuse and possibly damage your new thermostat and boiler.

That boiler requires a pump over- run which is what that earth wire has been used for. It should have some brown or red tape wrapped around it and connected to the P/L terminal with the rest of the boiler connections in the wiring centre. You should also cut link 3.

Just wire it the same as now, with the exception that the black wire goes to 1 on the Hive. Don't alter anything in the boiler. So 2 browns to L 2 blue to N Black to 1 Grey to 3 The earth wires should also be joined together on the Hive earth terminal. They should have been joined together...

1. Yes do that. 2. You don't need a wire in 2 (heating off, not hot water) for 99% of installs.

That is fine. Should be less than 0.8Ω on a TN-S system NOT 0.08Ω

Have you put the Hive receiver in place of the old receiver? If so then the existing clock will need to be set to constant or disconnected from the honeywell box and the wires in the box altered. Personally I would get rid of everything and just have the Hive receiver in place of the honeywell...