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Well there's concrete breakers and there's concrete breakers. I suspect you have a drill with a hammer action. Concrete breaker This is a electric breaker , then your into hydraulic stuff then compressed air. Drills are ok with floor screed ect but no use on concrete...

You can wet it again ,won't harm it. When the joints are hard it's done. I love reclaimed brick paths paved areas. They are a garden delight. Sounds like your doing fine so far.

You need to fluff the bed up a little. This will allow you to compress the slab to a desired level. A rocking slab is simply due to the bed in one area being high. Edge slabs are best set in wet mortar.

I've not used a water proofing product on paving pointing. I used a lot of PVA in mixes for slate and Indian stone to give better suction.

Very light sweep off after you use the pointing iron. i assume your sweeping oFf Before damping down?F No good doing it when wet after spraying

Right,ok If the bricks are half full No problem as 15-20 mm depth will be ok. A dabber ...its as i described earlier, a piece of thin wood or plastic ect about 6mm thick and 150mm long, it needs to be about 100 mm wide so you can hold it in your hand. you use it to push the jointing mix about...

OP = ordinary Portland cement. Available everywhere. this will be ok as will any similar products...

it tends to crumble ,no good for pointing as it doesn't hold the water so goes runny. So it runs out of the joints. its a bedding sand or screed ideally .. Lots do try and use it but its not very good. your idea, part fill and use joint filler is ok but a full pointed joint will be a better...

Easier way is to mix 4:1 mix soft sand and cement. Make it damp so if you squeeze a hand full it stays in a ball. Then get a bit of ply or something about 5-6 mm thick and 150 mm long. You then put a shovel full on the bricks and use the dabber to pack it into the joints. Important that this...

Id have thought a 3-2-1 mix sand gravel cement. Add some screed fibers too. Improve strength

Maybe a small inspection Chamber would solve that, 150x150 mm or smaller. Bit like a water stop cock box etc though you can get the proper box ,ask at a electric wholesalers

Unless you can vibrate them or press them they won't be very strong. Your better of doing a 100 mm thick concrete area and then use a brick pointing iron to create a crazy paving effect ..or just a nice wood float finish.

Double post?

Whenever ive had a customer who wanted lights. we simply put cable ducting in and left the duct pipe sticking up where lights go. you need a draw cord fitting or fit cable as you go. you can then install lights when its paved. Hth

Type 1 MOT ,or lean mix concrete ,10:1 mix, both would need compaction.

Sealers are a right pita if you need to repair a sunken area. they do help with oil ect. Im not a fan of any paving seal but that's more to do with being a paving contractor. make sure your paving is perfect before applying. if you have a stubborn oil patch try using Gunk engine cleaner. A good...

Glad you chose the right option..

I just re- laid a mates bit of plastic grass, it's easy to do it right. I think you need to make a phone call

You should be fine ,if you get a bit off water hanging around then you may need to change the soil for a gravel area etc. Clay can be a pain..

wot he said