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That being the case, then the switch is defective. At this stage I'd say your best bet is to buy a new motor.

Is the contact on the moving arm missing or is it an optical illusion?

Are you sure it's the motor that's 'humming' That safety switch will be part of the system inhibit loop and will drive a master contactor which interupts all the system electrics - typically shown as "K" in the circuit I provided. Some contactors can be prone to humming when energised...

There doesn't appear to be a self-tensioning idler pulley so forget the varied slip argument. Your photo doesn't show the reversing switch (or it's jumble of wires) Can you photograph the switch and it's wired connections. Do you have the manual for that particular machine complete with...

If the switch is a Dewhurst type with a centre OFF position as well as Forward and Reverse , it'll have mains in and mains out to run windings plus a pair of starter winding wires, ie a total of 6 wires plus earths.

That seems rather a small capacitor to be in the order of 190uF Could you please show a photograph of the information that's printed on it. It could be that the belts running in one direction tend to slacken away from the drive pulley and decrease the wrap so increasing the belt slip and...

Show a photograph of the terminal block clearly showing the terminations and your connections as requested at #6

Take a photograph of the motor terminals and detail how it was originally connected and how you connected it up when you tried to reverse its direction.

The capacitor doesn't "chose" the direction, and reversing it's connections will have no effect on direction. The capacitor provides the phase shift in the start winding and it is this phase shift that determines motor run direction. To reverse motor direction you need to swap the winding...

If your pipework is noisy it could be that the pump is pushing the water too fast around the circuit. You could try reducing the pump speed (presuming it has speed control) whilst ensuring it is still capable of dumping the boiler's maximim fire rate.

There will be some loss due to the diode forward voltage but if you use schotty diodes that can be kept to a minimum. One problem you will come across is that a permanent immersion load will act as a brake on the turbine and prevent it turning in all but a good breeze. In my system I had to...

I appreciate your doubt and the method you used to ensure the spindle wouldn't 'eject' but I can assure you the spindle is secured into a retaining notch in the valve gate since it has to both "pull' and "push" the gate

1 yes 2 either 3 no 4 yes From your photo it looks as if the gland nut will tighten a bit more. Even 1/12 of a turn (half a flat) may be enough to stop any weepage.

Any radiator in the system will accomplish that

That white cable doesn't appear to be your only problem the pair of 3c+e and the 2c+e also look far too short

There was a letter in the DT the other day by a guy advocating how effective his heat pump was. In the past he'd been running his gas boiler 3 hours in the morning and 3 hours in the evening with the room thermostat set at 20 degrees. With his new heat pump he runs the circulating water at a...

If you think smart meter adverts are questionable, how about the attached from facebook market place

Looks like a parapet flat roof (judging by the downpipe collectors) so there's always the chance of a weep down the internal wall

Your party wall with the bin-shed interior might only be a single brick - which could explain the damp (cold wall and warm/moist internal air) in which case insulation of the bin-shed could be a solution A photo of the internal damage might be useful

No-one who's certified will take objection to showing their credentials (as they are required to do when asked)