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I've been using volumetric concrete wagons, handy as you don't have to work out the quantity to precisely, as it's mixed there and then. Good luck with it.

When I refurb'd mine (1900 house), I reinstalled suspended floors. The old floors were rotten and wormed, so had to be replaced and there were a couple of old concrete ones laid onto ash (no DPM's) and cold as the arctic. My kitchen is now a solid floor with UFH. As it was my first dealing with...

Haven't got managed to get on with this yet.o_O A few months ago though, I noticed a drive had been covered with what look like small granite/basalt chippings (10mm guess), these were dropped onto a hot tar base by some contractors, seems to have stayed put, but not sure if you can DIY that?

My bother is 99% sure he's having shower wall boards in his refurbed bathroom. The walls are a mix concrete block (painted) and part stud work. What is the correct thing to put up on the wall before the shower wall boards? Been looking at STS boards (wickes), can you use plasterboard adhesive...

As we are on the subject of time delays, Flameport, could this be used as programmed timer for heated towel rail? Sangamo Powersaver Thanks

I've used these before, about 5 courses tall, you can make curved walls as your mock-up (not quite as tight though). I wasn't aware of the limitation of 600mm, but don't really think it would be problem making it taller. Each course of bricks sits back 25mm or so from the course underneath...

Could do with a VIP code enabling for new users, it used to stop this kind of cr4p! :cautious:

What about secondary glazing for this window instead?

Does the water have a greenish tinge? I was recommended to use X700 biocide (Sentinel products). I added this through the magnaclean filter, a simple process, scoop out the water with a small glass... and then bleed the air out.

I filled the gaps with expanding foam, then aluminium duct taped all the joints. This passed the inspection.

This might be what you need. Flue guard

I did a spade deep and wide as a footing for my sleeper walls. All has been good. Just make sure you put some DPC on top to the wall before resting your joists on there. Wherever wood is in contact with the brickwork, slide some DPC inbetween. I went around the hearth with a a trimmer (90º to...

If you are replacing it early 2024, then why not just lash-up some cavity batts/rockwool for the the time being (for the animals) Then, when time to replace, build a proper warm roof.

Sorry, thought it was a crab claw. :LOL: Will stay tuned for the next one.(y)

When you say water, presume you are talking about condensation. Lots of flat roofs are now warm roofs insulation on outside, which will help stop condensation. Insulation on inside can promote it, hence the need for ventilation. Can you add any ventilation? If not, I've seen it mentioned on...

I not sure what c, d, a or b is, but if you are saying the blockwork is 3cm proud of the wall, then there's no easy way of remedying. You can't grind off 3cm. Either you want the blockwork re-doing and setting back or bring the surrounding area (presumably white wall c, d?) out by 3cm to match...

Build quality of Sage is better IMO, and I've had both machines. I don't think the Breville version of the Sage Barista will be as good with a good few years of use on it. The grinder mechanism is similar but not as good, plastic is cheaper and marks more easily... it feels flaky... but yes...

The ridge does look a bit bumpy... have you been into the loft to see what the state of the roof is? Can you take a photo of the gable end, or is this not possible?

Would be cheaper to remove the grille and measure the wall thickness to see if it's cavity or not... also IF it's been filled you should be able to see the filling. Solid brick is usually 9" wide. I suspect it's a solid brick wall, with no cavity, especially being from 1898. I'm in a 1900's and...

Run the grinder up it and repoint if worried. Clear sealant if you want a bodge. Personally I'd leave it alone. Last extension I looked at, had foam strip insert instead of any mortar... they just left it, but think the proper way is a polysulphide joint sealant, after the foam strips.