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Hi Benway, Just popped over here after seeing the plans on your lighting thread. Have you made provision for a utility room in the house? I couldn't tell the room purposes from the plan. I see you've put the UFH down now so it might be a little late, but I would seriously consider it if not...

Where will the dining table go? What will be in the space to the right of the kitchen island? It is very personal choice and the reason a designer is so expensive is because they will go through many many options and styles with you so they can zero in on your preference. They don't do one...

32A/30mA would almost certainly be an RCBO. If it is dedicated to the UFH (turn if off to check and see if anything else stops working) then you have plenty of spare capacity (32A x 240V = approx 7.5kW of capacity). You're good to go.

Pedantry accepted. Yes I was referring to the notification requirement.

Hi Kadi, while the elders argue about the merits of old money versus new money, let me answer your question. You say you have checked the ratings on the RCD, usually the there is an MCB (breaker) for the circuit and an RCD for multiple circuits (if it's a combined one it's called an RCBO)...

Hard to say! The wiring for a single central tube light is likely to run from the edge of the room, along the line of the joists, to the middle of the fixture in the centre of the room. If you're replacing this with 4 or more downlights, evenly distributed around the room, this is going to...

First. The wiring might mean doing a lot more plasterboard cutting than you originally plan if there aren't already lights/wires in the locations you want the new spots. Getting cable through ceiling joists is no easy task if there isn't already a run. Work it out to the best of your ability...

It's probably a combination of factors related to the cold weather and age of the shower due to scale build up (which occurs in areas other than the trap). It's extremely unlikely to be anything electrical, as Stem notes, they are very simple from this perspective. If you are using on the max...

Had this with a socket after doing a bit of renovation. Took the socket apart (including the internals) and found the whole thing was FULL of dust, both the plug receptacles and the switch rockers. Hoovered it out and re-assembled and no problems since. If you're not confident re-assembling...

Or you could just cover all bases by installing a 3-amp fuse in parallel with an un-fused supply.

Doh!

https://www.schneider-electric.co.uk/en/product/SR3XT61FU/discrete-i-o-extension-module---6-i-o---100..240-v-ac---for-zelio-logic/ All the manuals and programming information are there. I seems you need the special software and a special USB interface cable to program these. However - some of...

Sorry I was being generic. Technically a transforming rectifier no?

Hard to say without more information! Have you already purchased the LED strips? How are they powered? Do they each have a plug transformer? Inline transformer with bare tails? Do you intend to permanently wire them to the mains or power through sockets and plugs? The 3 switches you mention...

Low voltage is the way to go. I used these for my deck, not sure they are suited to your needs but they are cost-effective and come pre-wired and sealed. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071KKMHHZ As noted above - you need to decide what the lights are for - if they are just edge-markers...

Electrically it's the same. Don't worry about it. You don't need the cable going from 2-zone 1 and back to SCR 1, that could have been achieved with a jumper from L to 1 in the SCR. But if you have 4-core cable anyway, then there is no harm in it.

So just to avoid any doubt. Either do this: (voltage-free switch method - NO JUMPER) OR This (240v switch method) But do not mix the two. All things considered, Stem's voltage-free method will be easiest with this boiler.

Fair enough. Your method looks easier then!

I am not sure this works - AFAIK the Heat Link switched connections are designed to work on 240V load, not 'voltage free'. This might work, and shouldn't do any damage if you try it. My method will definitely work. However don't mix the methods, if you connect 240V to the voltage-free...