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Oh what a horrible way to do wiring - having all those board plugs instead of screw terminals makes it harder. See my post above. Because of that board you will need to use the FCU load terminals to get the L+N wiring to the Heat Link. Then a jumper from 'L' to '2' (Common) on the Heat Link...

Also beware that many Nest installation videos are created for the US market version of the Nest which uses a COMPLETELY different low voltage switching system and does not have the Heatlink. In the US system the terminals are labelled Y1, W2, G, O, C, E, R. Any videos you see that mention...

As ericmark notes - the efficiency of the Nest is heavily impacted if it cannot use the OpenTherm protocol hence it cannot control the boiler modulation. In this case it has to rely on the boiler to do this (which it may or may not do well, or at all). You will still get all the cool...

If the Nest is to be using standard mains switched control (which is the only thing Nest supports if the boiler is not OpenTherm compatible) then the Heatlink acts like a standard 240V switched thermostat. You should follow diagram 12440 on page 28 of the manual...

Yes I always avoid fitting any sort of expansion fixing into any sort of cast porcelain/ceramic/resin etc. they are designed to take pressure on the surfaces and any sort of internal expansion force and will crack it eventually. When fixing things into bathroom walls/floor, I always drill...

Lesson from experience - never try to be fancy and put 60x60cm tiles in such a small space - of the 12 tiles needed to cover the floor area, just ONE is going down whole. Most required multiple cuts. :cry:

Waterproof membranes and corner taping complete. Underfloor heating down- the interesting pattern is to ensure the cable does not interfere with the drainage drop in the shower tray. Tiling commences! And that’s up to date. I’ll post more as it goes.

Project to replace an existing built in wardrobe and small ensuite with a larger luxury wetroom. Budget: £2000 Currently on track! The original plans, drawn in Sketchup. They haven’t changed too much from this, the cubby holes in the pillar on the right have changed side because I built...

Haha. To be honest I was impressed with the work the installer did, there was a lot of pipework re-routing involved and they did and very neat and tidy job. They did miss a couple of the basics though, a few radiators in the further parts of the house didn't get bled when the system was...

Now, I know this will start a debate, but in theory, if using Wago push-fit connectors inside a Wagobox he could replace the back-boxes and plaster/tile over (assuming there was enough depth). Provided that the wiring still all resides within the permitted safe-zones, which it would if there...

I have used the Integral Constant Voltage Drivers in several locations for 12V LEDs and not had any issues, they seem well made and well designed. https://www.integral-led.com/drivers/constant-voltage This one would suit your needs...

Bit of a double-edged sword that one though, because a gripe I had with my old Worcester boiler was that it took a long time to register hot water flow, so you'd have to run the hot tap for about 5 seconds before it would light the boiler, then by the time the hot water makes it to the tap...

OK OK. Panic over. :) I had forgotten to purge the shower in the spare bathroom. It's only maybe an extra 1.5 meters of pipe, but it was clearly enough to cause the problem.

I don't think there are more dead legs. I found the hot feed for the washing machine, it still had a valve on it, so just purged it through. Not fixed. It is consistent now that it only fires when cold is turned off, so I guess the pressure of the cold running is possibly drawing water back...

It's a Viessmann Vitodens 100. Yes I have a meter.

So I fully purged the system again, which I realised I had not done after draining it to remove the dead-leg. It's improved it. Now it only does it, oddly, when turning the cold tap in the kitchen off suddenly. So you can run the tap as long as you like and it's fine, then as soon as you shut...

It was a straight swap, combi for combi

I had a new boiler fitted a few weeks ago. Since then there has been an issue where the boiler will fire and run for 30 seconds or so whenever the COLD taps are turned on (however the water still comes out cold, so it is not cross-connected). I called the plumber back out and he verified the...

Evening all. Can you use the newer white hep fittings with the older grey hep pipe? If so, just use a regular insert? If not, what would you use to cap one of these spurs? Cheers

I don’t really understand the logic of putting them on RCBOs and not on RCDs. Surely the probability/protection argument is the same regardless of form-factor. But having worked in a couple of product design departments in my time I suspect the “well theirs has it so ours should otherwise...