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Ah right. That makes sense. I will take a look at the flames to see what they are doing.

Thanks for the new reply. What's odd is when he had serviced it he did all the relevant tests and there was no unusual reading suggesting there was an issue with the flue. The incoming air was clean. It was only after it ran for a short time that it began knocking. It now knocks immediately if...

Ah right. Would need to look at that. Certainly the fan is running super smoothly. With the case open the draw of air turns the fan and when running the boiler with the case off you can see the fan running nice and smooth and silent. It's only when the case goes back on that it gets bad.

Is the Venturi the fan? This was replaced about 18 months ago.

Cool. There is definitely nothing else there then - he had a really good look and the coupler or whatever you call it was replaced too as the gasket on that was shot. Had a look down the flue from above and nothing in the way either.

This isn't considered a reducer is it? This was the old connector from the boiler to the internal pipe in the flue. Had to order a new one for a new gasket.

Or sorry from boiler terminal to roof. Just to be clear :-)

Yup, from terminal to out the roof. No bends.

Nope, no restrictor that he can see. Sorry I forgot to mention he had hoped it was a restrictor.

Right. Got a complete fud of a problem and looking for some ideas. I have a Ferroli Modena 102 combi which has concentric flue. When we bought the house, the boiler was cutting out when running hot water. Had a firm out who said the fan needed replaced. After the fan was replaced, which was...

Have a Feroli Modena 102 combi which has a concentric vertical flue. It was cutting out during hot water demand when we bought the house and a boiler guy came round and diagnosed a faulty fan. New one fitted and issue was resolved. Over time the boiler has started to get quite noisy with...

They are more than 10 years old I think so would imagine there's no guarantee. Some more info - when you turn the key to lock or unlock, there's no "click" or resistance so the only way to know it has locked is to test the handle. Will try drilling the metal tomorrow just in case. Thanks...

The lock on one side of my double UPVC doors has gone - it locks but if you force the handle a few times it seems to unlock, so I'm guessing a new cylinder is needed. Read up on removal and it all seems straight forward. However the door in question is the door that you would open second so...

Yeah, I was pretty stunned when we found it. All I know is the house was built 30 years ago by a builder for his daughter, so who knows who built what.

Right. Got a wee update on this one. We went up on the roof today and removed some tiles above one of the leak points. We couldn't see any issues with the tiles themselves with all water gates intact however.... The felt beneath, in one nice long run along the roof, right where all the...

As far as I know the tiles are all nailed. High exposure - yes and no. We are down in a heavily wooded glen which is generally quite sheltered but at the same time the houses are all staggered on a slope so we don't get any protection from anything around us. Don't know if that's classed as...

Thanks. This is what I need to know. Every single wet spot looks like this, which is why I said I found it hard to believe it could be condensation and why the roof vents were a red herring (and probably waste of money). So is the next step the removal of some tiles at each wet point?

Sorry Al missed a bit in one of your replies. Are you suggesting that the marks in the photos are NOT from condensation?

Thanks Al. We checked all the tiles while we were up removing the moss. Used a roof ladder so no walking or crawling on the tiles.

Here are some photos of the water marks left by the leaks. The majority of the boards are unstained and aren't sagging in any way. The chalk was so I could monitor if they were getting worse. Also a photo of the one vent I've opened up.