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Thanks for the input. I am all about learning from others' experience. This pipe terminates above polycarbonate roof of a lean-to shelter. Drying some clothes. Drying some logs etc. Maybe I'll put durgo below polycarbonate. Maybe not. I am asking if anyone knows what and how it goes wrong if...

Some even cheaper.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-vp100e-push-fit-air-admittance-valve/236HP?tc=YT2&ds_kid=92700048793290397&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQiAv8PyBRDMARIsAFo4wK3O8IgtPlFUZhaFxX1Nwg9Rj4Y3DZi7xpgTvQSeQbmiUDfg3PhweWAaArnHEALw_wcB

There's that, yes... Suppose I mean *why* does it need to terminate 200mm above highest indoor outlet? Is it in case the whole lot fills up, it would start coming out of the durgo.... But then it's a valve? If I can understand why a rule is there I am more inclined to go along with it. A durgo...

Yes ,I know, I know.

Planned to work out some leadwork voodoo to get this soil pipe through the polycarbonate roof... Then remembered durgo valves! But, must be 200mm above highest point of water exit. Which is sink overflow? (One bathroom, no tank in loft.) 1. What if I can squeeze a external durgo on top and...

Pretty sure that would make the runs over 1.5m. Sobered up and arrived at 1.42 runs with 0.15 laps. About 3cm wasted I think! But thanks for the input, your my best mate, "hic!";)

Thanks for looking... Some things I struggle with more than others... I have been using a ruler and drawing lines to scale to work this out in real world.. lots of wasted paper! 6m roll of lead. Total span to cover 5.24m Rules: 1. Overlaps > 0.1m 2. Spans < 1.5m 3. Spans look even. 4...

Just bought a new circ'saw with short :evil: flex. Pretty stiff and shiny plastic. Can anyone help spec the flex that I should be looking for. Thinking about 3.5m (if that will fit into the case) of a quality rubber flex? From where and what to look for? Thanks!

You can run your flue horizontally for as long/far as your flue pipe is wide.Don't think that length at 15 deg' will be ok either, so, no.

Given that its a lean to closed at one end (with fence side gate and shiplap above), the amount of light and the heat are not issues between opal and clear. Neighbours on other side of the road will be looking at it from their kitchen window, and on approach to the house from the West you see...

Thanks for the info. Pretty sure you have done far more time on saws than I have. I have owned a left bladed cordless. Not a worm drive though. It was brilliant. Very easy to see the cut. It was light but then why can they make an equally light left sided corded saw? Think this is beyond...

I want one.... Fed up of leaning over my sidewinder. Port perfectly placed for face full of dust. My crappy parkside doesn't have visible marks on the front edge to reference the cut line. Wish it would die so I can get a new one! Worm drive looks soooo much more easy to use. All the cut...

Thanks for that. Reassuring stuff. The open-door-prevents-roof-removal part is interesting as my build is a lean to roof with one open side- rather than a sealed up room. It's going to be close boarded fencing with triangle of shiplap fixed up into one 'gable end'(?) of the roof. ......so am...

Does the same problem repeat over many cuts? As in its always about the same distance out? TBH, it's better than I would be able to do.

Why?:cry: Pitch is 5 1/2-12. Overall 5m w x 3-3.6 long. Joists at 1014mm centres... Hail? Snow? How about glazing bars over every joist? There will be purlins at gutter end and halfway up towards ledger plate. I have plenty of spare 5"X2" after cocking up the birdsmouth cuts :(

Not sure what you mean. Are you unhappy most of the time?

Why?:cry:

Ah, I see. Thanks for clarifying. Mine are 5"x2" timbers. Will be using the very low profile, screw down glazing bars composed of a 2" wide, rubber gasket strip with a aluminium crown section that you screw down over each side of sheet. Underside of strip is double gasketed underneath/facing...

Got that. Thanks. Just saw on youtube that I can use a aluminium f section on outer edges/sides instead of using glazing bars saving a bit more money. Its over 15' high, house-side so best not make it too difficult.