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Just fill in the holes with boarding, but you will need battens from above to make sure it's secure. If you're worrying about damp affecting the plasterboard, then your bathroom is too damp! Fix the ventilation.

Eh? Your drill will not have 'disturbed' the lintel. Looks more like water is getting in via the window and corroding the lintel. That will blow out all the brickwork around it.

No new dwellings is pretty standard rules. Anglian have the same. You will need to divert it. Might not cost as much as you think.

The baffle just determines which way up the radiator is. You can still feed it from either side.

If the problem is affecting both rads and hot water, then it's probably not the system piping that's at fault. Perhaps low gas pressure to the boiler?

A concrete garage is meant to be effectively open to the atmosphere through ventilation and other gaps. It's not a sealed or temperature controlled room. Providing you keep it ventilated and the inside temperature is the same as the outside temperature, you won't get condensation. If you...

Or 3: make sure that anything stored there is kept in an airtight box or sealed plastic bag.

If the wall is sound, then just tile over the front of it with some brick slips. Afternoon's job and will look indistinguishable from the real thing.

Yes, rockwool resting on the plasterboard is pretty standard I think. Cables on top of that. The heat retention benefits are actually secondary to the noise insulation properties.

Loft roll is better than nothing, but not as good as PIR.

Rip down all of that and put 100mm of PIR insulation between the roof joists. It's more complicated than that and if you want to do a proper job (you do) you need to think about ventilation, vapour barrier, etc.

This on it's side only would only need a 90mm notch out of the side of the pier.

As others have said. Forget old fashioned junction boxes. Switch to wago and you'll never look back. Stuffing 3 wires in a screw terminal... never again!

You sound like you are doing heroes' work - please feel free to ask as many questions as you need here. It sounds like you know where you've gone wrong - getting the walls straight is obviously key to getting the doors to fit properly. In your situation and assuming you can't face remaking the...

Good luck finding the same door in 5-10 years time.

Painted is always better, imo. Very easy to touch up any scratches. You can even sand it back/fill and repaint any major knocks. With the wrapped vinyl, repairs are nigh on impossible.

Foam isnt particularly hard. I'd drill a small hole at the centre of the problem and inject a good dollop of Gripfill or similar. That board won't be going anywhere after that sets.

Please don't tell me someone is sleeping in that room!

Just use some long hamerfix fixings or similar: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41BG-33EvRL._SL1000_.jpg Drill hole, whack them in, job done. Used the same to hang incredibly heavy vertical rads, and they aren't budging.

Yeah expanding foam. Will just need a tiny amount.