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To add to oldbuffer's very complete and accurate post: I carry the following parts as van stock and reckon to be able to fix 85% of the dripping 1/4 turn kitchen mixers I encounter https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-1-2-bsp-quarter-turn-ceramic-tap-glands-pack/1908f...

And the hot inlet filter on the TMV behind your bath panel is probably blocked.

Wiggle, jiggle, lever and pry. ( Well-known firm of solicitors)

Sorry about the bold - cut and paste in the above post. Yes to a separate overflow through gable wall and the base for the new cistern must be of material that won't degrade if it gets wet.

8.1 Internal services 8.1.4 Cold water storage Cold water service shall be provided in accordance with statutory requirements and be adequate. Issues to be taken into account include...

Fluidmaster side entry fill valve, brass shanked.

How are you testing for "half the capacity gone"? The symbol on the controller is not a literal representation of remaining capacity, rather flags up detection of a reduced voltage from the battery which occurs towards the end of battery life.

Boiler in a kitchen? Look for a filling loop adjacent to and below the boiler, probably at the back of a unit nearby, possibly behind a removeable panel.

Usually a trace of nearby residual water in the pipe . If the joint holds leak-free for some hours it's unlikely to leak later.

Makes no sense to me. OK, codes and practices differ, but encasing pipework in vertical sheets or piers of concrete seems mad IMO . What about thermal expansion of the pipework- not inconsiderable for ABS ? I think you'd be better off consulting a more local forum. Best wishes.

Leaving aside the mould issue..

Its got to be the valve, the tube, or the push button (bellows). Always worth checking the tube for splits/loose ends. The valve in the link looks identical to me. If so it will twist off the cradle so would require no further dismantling to swap.

Drying plaster will make the room feel cooler.

Ebay

Gas is being burnt @ 8 or 9 kW where's that heat going? Radiant to the room, convective within the plasterboarded cavity with some convection/radiation eventually to the room as things warm up and lastly chimney losses. I'd be hard put to it to measure and disentangle these three.

+1 for the recommendation for showerdoc.com

Clingfilm the bog to retain the trap seal. Do remember to remove on first re-use!

This is a UK site; practices and material ranges differ from yours That said, try exposing more pipe and using what I believe you colonials term a "no-hub" fitting in the appropriate size as a slip connector...

3:1 sand : cement (some would even go 1:1) , you lean in and contour/shape/polish it as it goes off. Waterproofing/accelerant additives as you like.

Oh, but they come up with most creative mumbo-jumbo about "how they work" [i.e. presupposing that do] but are (ahem) more reticent on the subject of independent trials evidencing that they do anything but sweet FA.