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UPDATE: still need to fill and sand some of the gaps but this is here I am. The wood feels solid now! Thanks for your help.

Like a Ronseal 2 part part filler? I was intending to use this on top to fill any gaps/imperfections. I thought the blob of adhesive to stick the wood piece to the existing frame will allow me to position the wood piece so that it is flush at the top.

The last door frame repair was quite different I thought, because I replaced most of the vertical section. I will post pictures of that repair in the associated post. Thanks for reminding me as I intended to post an update. This repair feels more asthetics as it just needs to take the latch...

This frame is damaged and I’ve cut a chunk of the damaged section out using my multi cutter. Can I find a decent chunk of wood (not too flimsy) and glue in using Stixall? This will allow me to put some blobs of adhesive underneath and level the wood flush at the top. I can the use two part...

I suppose, I could do a test with the current piece. I appreciate that it will be too narrow but might be worth doing, to get some experience.

Would a jigsaw be the preferred method for this cut?

At the point that it is touching the wall when in vertical position?

Do people bisect the angle for these or do a 90 degree corner and smash the wall to suit? I’ve got a few of these and wondering what approach I should take. Thanks in advance.

It has gaps of over 10mm in places. What kind of filler would you use for that? I’ve seen some videos of scribing but I think this may be more complicated as some width of the architrave needs to go anyhow, in order to sit at the clearance line. I’m happy to start again, if there is a more...

I’ve made a dogs dinner out of this. I know but let me explain. I’ve successfully fitted a few architrave now. Including two next to the wall that needed to be trimmed down the length. With this, I measured at the bottom, middle and top. I cut the architrave based on these measurements. This...

Can someone name this spindle or the supplier for it please? I need one to replace the missing one. Ideally from a local DIY shed.. Thanks in advance.

Excuse my ignorance but how does this help when the walls are wonky across the entire length?

No bending or block-up's. A couple didn't pull the skirting in but on a number of occasions, I could see that the nails pulled the board tight.

It hasn't bene rewired recently and has been in place for a few years. I only noticed the surface water this winter and the blowing last year. The reverse impeller sounds very plausible. Except the tissue does get sucked in when I try this. I do find that odd. I can feel the air blowing by...

I could but I have painted upstairs and wanted the dust to be confined to downstairs. I also have more space in the lounge downstairs.

Perhaps it would help to have a circular saw upstairs for the shaving slightly off part? Currently I need to trek down to the chop saw for everyone of these adjustments.

18 Gauge and I think it probably just went into the plaster, without penetrating the blocks behind it. I've got plaster straight on to blocks in this property

I was doing some skirting boards over the weekend and had a question please. If you take a wall such as this: I measure it and cut a piece accordingly but it's then usually slightly short. I think it's because the wall bulges in and out and that increases the length? I then tried leaving it...

UPDATE - I used my new Ryobi Nailer with the skirting this weekend and can report that it does pin the skirting to the plaster. In a few places it. visibly pulled the skirting in. Pleased with that :)

Not sure about the vent in the outside. It has a 10 min over run. We have a gap under the door.