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That could be your problem, it is very common for boiler replacements to mix up the flow anad returns, which now makes the zone valves the wrong way round, still works but will clunk when closing, do you know the model of your old and replacement boilers

can you post a pic of your zone valves please close and wide shots so we can see your set up

yes you can manually latch it, switch the heating off then immediately latch the valve and if the knocking stope likely to be a by pass isseu

call your supplier the number will be on the meter and wey will attend foc and sort it

Trvs are on off controls so as long as they are calling for heat the rads in use anywhere will all heat to the same temp until satisfied then the rad will turn off

No you do not, look at the backplate , is says N,L 1234 you linl 1&3

AS @stem says the zone alve micro switch is sticking, change the actuator, no need to drain anything

be very carefull wiring that boiler with new controls, it is volt free switching if you get it wrong will be very expensie

wiring colours mean absolutely nothing in a heating system, pics are best of everything

no you will need a dedicated hub, most will work with alexa, but you still need a hub

the grey wire going to the hsa3 IT SHOULD HAVE 2 INPUTS ONE FRO THE PROGRAMMER AND ONE FROM THE CYLINDER STAT

just close the little red plug on the top of the aav, and if you ever drain down then open it again as you refill, or change it when it is drained, ther are all crap and all leak, they dont actually do anything when the system is filled, except leak

no you need to remove the old thermostats or they will interfere with the hive, you can simply link them out if you want to, when you fit the receivers, link L&1 Then the brown wire from the corrosponding zone valve goes to 3 on the hive, leave everything else as is

It is a sealed system

yes you need two thermostats and two receivers but only one hub, the receivers are wired to the zone valves not the boiler and the valves control the boiler , you will need to reverse the wiring change you made when you wired the hive direct to the boiler

as @picasso you have a faulty motorised valve, your hive does not tell the boiler when to come on, it opens the valves and they tell the boiler when to come on

then for some reason it has lost the HW off signal or it was never wired in correctly from the start

The gas safe engineer will have their own guage

When you say ticking, do you mean clicking ? about once every second ?

Now there is a term I do not hear every day :LOL: :LOL: