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yes

They lose contact for fun, very unreliable, if you already have them for your UFH just leave them until they fail, I would use single channel Hives for the other zones, obviously you will need 2 apps to control everything, for the hive zones you will need a thermostat and receiver for each zone...

What do you want the controllers to do ? do you want to use your smart phone or tablet to control the heating zones or just use the thermostats

I think he is referring to a 3 port 3 wire diverter valve rather than a mid position valve, not very common but have seen a few, along with the old manual diverter valves that had a manual lever between HW and CH think they were a servowarm idea many years ago...

your first diagram is correct but the colours are dubious, all grey wires on all zone valves are conncted together with a permanent live, all the orange wires are connected together and go to LR on the boiler, the thermostats switch the brown wires on corrosponding zone valves, it is the valves...

yes you can use 5 core , or 4 core if you prefer, best to take the L&N supply to the hive receiver from the boiler supply and 1&3 from the hive go to those 2 terminals at the boiler, DO NOT link L&1 at the hive as you may see on other posts, it must be a single channel hive not a dual channel...

well that is completely wrong the brown sleeve is telling you ir is a live wire, the Hive mini does not use a neutral it has a live and a switched live, it is battery powered and is simply a switch It doesnt talk to the boiler , it controls a zone valve, that zone valve talks to the boiler

I can guarentee you he doesnt

When boilers are designed, these days they have to be what is called negative pressure, in that the fan pushes the exhaust fumes out of the flue, causing a negative pressure inside the combustion chamber, this causes the boiler to pull in air for combustion from outside to complete the...

No it doesnt it hooks onto those two pegs then is screwed under the bottom, it hasnt been refitted properly and should not be used like that it is dangerouse

That is leaking, but is not the cause of your system pressure dropping

There is two common faults with them , the plastic cartridge breaks up, or the diverter gland passes and water gets into the actuator motor and the motor fails, you do not have to be gas safe registered to remove the outer cover and have a look, the motor is simply held in with a large circlip...

OH how I miss putty and paint great stuff , NOT

Most likely the diverter valve cartridge

No tap into the 22mm

Doesent matter just make sure you buy bi-directional TRV s

Check your house insurance policy, many include trace and repair these days for your scenario

you say you have UFH Zones controlled by thermostats ? if you mean you do have different UFH zones then you need S plan plus, you cant control this with what you are calling a 3 port valve

Do you have seperate thermostats for upstairs and downstairs ?

remove both orange wires at the wiring centre and see if the boiler now goes off, if it does, then check for continuity between the grey wires and each orange, which ever one shows continuity that is the faulty valve