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You can get a paddle mixing bit a lot cheaper, just use an adapter chuck in a slow speed SDS drill on rotary-only. I thikn it really helps to have one person on mixing and one person on laying

A dishwasher for unbreakable crockery

RCD as a main switch is a hazard because it will cut out the lights in the event of a fault on another circuit. It may be easier to mitigate that risk (and a good idea anyway) to put a couple of emergency lights on the stairs and in the kitchen.

A 4 camera Blink system is £350. https://blinkforhome.co.uk/collections/outdoor-security-cameras A 4 camera Hikvision system is £300 with a 1 TB hard drive, plus cables https://www.jmcsecure.co.uk/4mp-hiwatch-by-hikvision-4ch-ip-cctv-kit-with-4-bullet-cameras Hikvision and others also do wifi...

A gridswitch and a neon or LED indicator module? You may need fusing down from the power circuit.

Two people, and a paving slab lifter. Even better is a vacuum lifter. https://www.speedyservices.com/73_5405-h-handyman-vacuum-lifter

Is that self-amalgamating or a special adhesive rubber tape?

You could use continential-style sockets that mount in a circular back box/hole eg https://www.furneauxriddall.com/acatalog/Berker-British-Standard-Socket-Outlet-Polar-White-BK_09_6262_25_02.html and...

I have skirting trunking in my lounge, it was easier than cutting out the wall for about 10 doubles, 3 quad data points, two phone points and 4 table light points. It'll be a ******* if I ever change the carpet though - the skirting went on over the existing carpet and gripper.

Try a motor rewind place as they deal with the sort of stuff likely to use mica sheet.

1. Don't have a prepaid electricity or gas meter. 2. If you have to have a prepaid meter, get a smart one that you can top up online or by phone. 3. A car battery and an inverter, with an appropriate change-over switch and earthing, will run a gas boiler. 4. Most gas fires don't need electricity.

The council are likely to still be the building manager / factor / freeholder of your building and responsible for maintenance of the common parts including the intercom system.

Not necessarily. An oven is a fixed load which is unlikely to overload, and a 32A will probably still provide short-circuit protection. This must be proved by calculation. A larger cable would be prudent though, to allow for an appliance with a heavier loading in future.

I think you'd need some proper concrete to fill the holes, then an exterior self-levelling compound would do. It's not difficult to use provided you've got a paddle mixer on an SDS drill and ideally someone to mix the next bucket while you're spreading the first. The whole lot needs to go down...

Possibly taking the Openreach line to extension sockets, which were formerly connected to Cable?

Unless you screed the whole area you won't get a completely even finish. You could paint it with a base colour, then tape it out and paint in groutlines, and pick out some 'tiles' in slightly darker or lighter tones to add variety and hide inconsistency. You can even get metallic marble...

it's fitted so if you don't pay your bill they can put the meter remotely into prepay mode to collect the debt, and if you don't pay up the lights go off. It has been known for them to put the meter into prepay mode accidentally, with the householder having no way of crediting the prepay...

If that intake cable comes up through a concrete floor moving it will be a fairly major job, probably requiring digging and jointing outside = expensive. About the best that can be done is to move the meter under the CU, then you can have a cupboard to the left of the window and maybe a low...

If you have mains power then it would be a lot better to buy a mains-powered unit, especially for the water heating. I assume it's a variant of this: https://www.tealwash.com/product-category/tealwash-range/ They are designed for car battery voltages and won't operate at true 12V because that...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_over_Avian_Carriers