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I can't find any specifics on the motherboard identifying any options like hotswap but I suspect its very unlikely to allow hotswapping (although I have used modified bios on some HP machines to enable it). It might be worthwhile looking at a PCIe card to give you usb 3.0 ports if you have a...

You mention hot swap, hot swap is so you can take out the hard drives while the system is still running. Is this what you actually want to do?

While i havent taken a look at your links (I'm probably not in a position to advise if they are of good quality or not). Is there a reason you wouldnt want to either have a single gang socket with usb instead of a spur and those modules inside of it or even better, just replace the socket you...

One thing that people often overlook with smart devices is the wifi connection. Most regular households just use the default wifi name given to them by their ISP e.g. VIRGIN13342342 SKY243423 etc.. then when they change providers everything stops working so they frantically have to go round...

Most energy companies can also install smart thermostats like hive, nest etc.. for £150 last time I checked if you feel like you need smart heating.

If you have individual radiator controls or plan on getting that then there probably is no need for the 2 seperate zones, they can just remain combined. I would assume that the hive radiator valves work along with the hive controller so when any radiator needs heat it will send the signal to the...

It should be as simply as joing the 2 wires together where each of the original thermostats were. keep in mind they will likely have 230v from the controller/timer.

I suspect your heating is open circuit because the thermostat wires are not joined. Without knowing your wiring I suspect that each heating wire goes to their respective thermostats and then back to the boiler to tell it to turn on. One of the wires will have the voltage from the controller then...

When you removed the thermostats, did you join the wires together or have they been removed completley or disconnected? Did they wire to the timer or directly to the boiler?

In terms of connecting to the boiler, you would at a minimum need something like a smart / remote relay that you can trigger when any TRV needs heat. coupled with home assistant or something like that and you can create a fairly open heating system and even use a mix of different branded TRVs etc..

While you could use motorized valves to create zones for the floors / bigger areas, do you have the access to the pipes? Have the cable runs from the motor to where they will be wired and controlled from? Given a simplified zone creation using those would still cost at least £150-200 I would...

Something like honeywell evohome or other smart TRV's will give you control over each room to create your own zones. Why do you say the wiser trv's are prohibitive? Looking at the wiser trv page they say individual radiator control too.

How are you accessing the webserver? Is this via a local address/ip just wondering if your able to access the pi locally without having to go via the router (well kinda). What router are you using btw?

I wonder if you are experiencing some memory leak issues or just the amount of data is causing the pi to show and crash or the webserver? Would a scheduled reboot of the pi say at 1am everyday or every 12 hours potentially be a short term workaround until you can optomise the code? Could you try...

It does have a guidance to this as below: • AC-In The AC input must be protected by a fuse or magnetic circuit breaker rated at 32 A (for 3 kVA model), 50 A (for 5 kVA model) and 100 A (for 8 kVA and 10 kVA model) or less, and cable cross-section must be sized accordingly. If the input AC...

To protect in the event of a victron malfunction, fire I suppose? e.g. moisture, bugs or rain got into them being located into a garage. I know this wont give any valid shock protection but didn't think it could be a bad idea to add a little additional protection for this part of the...

I have an inverter (Victron Multiplus 2 48/5000) that is currently fed from a 50A RCBO however it doesnt give me any selectivty when downstream circuits fed by the 30ma RCBO's trip, so I would like to swap these out to MCBs and potentially give additional protection via 100ma / 100ma Time...

I can only vouch for the one I use which is Eufy doorbell cam and thats pretty reasonably priced and no cloud fees (using the home base) compared to others that might require a subscription. Might be worth checking some youtube channels like PaulHibbert or TheHookUp which have plenty of research...

That price if you look carefully is for the extra plastic attachments only, it does not come with the fingerbot. But they are not too badly priced though if you click the other options they will likely be around £12. The other brand (and possibly the orginal) was called SwitchBot so you might...

Switchbots are about £20 where I've seen them.