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The last house I lived in had had a similar operation carried out by an absolute muppet. A single skin wall had been removed to enlarge the kitchen Upstairs the hallway floor is obviously twisted, the back bedroom door had to be shaved into a parallelogram and the bathroom door has a gap that...

Pretty sure the number of times a gate will be open, or loose fitted enough, to allow that to happen is the 99% scenario.. especially when you consider that winding the other nut will helpfully force the gate off the threaded bar, combined with the gate's hinged side being made of box section...

Not much point taping the insulation to the joists, if I understood you correctly; the foam will suffice. It's not airtight, by the way, as its open cell structure when cured, but it's nearly there/doesn't matter Foam binds better and expands better when in contact with a damp surface. Also...

Your floor joists are 4x2? Holy crap, every room must be like a trampoline.. mine are 10x4! I concur with the others in the recommendation to pack the smaller joists up so the tops are level. if this causes you a nuisance with the ceiling below them, tack strips of mdf/hardboard/stripwood to...

Aye carumba; versus 10 - 15 concrete blocks at a quid each?!

I love how all the pictures on gatelock.co.uk are shots of gate hinges where anyone with an adjustable spanner could quickly undo a single nut and remove the gate, leaving the threaded stud part of the hinge securely gatelocked to the wall mount

Cut a slot in it vertically (as if you're trying to make it into a slotted head screw) all the way down til the grinder touches the gate part - if pressed on, it'll now lever apart/fall off and still leave you with a long stub that you can thread, or fit another collar to (perhaps...

given that there are a million mm2 in a m2, 3.6kN/m2 is 3.6 thousand newtons per million mm2. This is clearly much less strong than 3.6 million newtons per million mm2 (3.6 newtons per mm2) The sites that are citing 3.6kN/m2 have their units wrong Perhaps more important is the type of block...

Dig it all out, down to a flat and level grade, then re-make it all using (a triangular stack of) concrete blocks, topped with paving stones. You can mortar the blocks together if you like; use a weak mix like 10:1 then they'll come apart again easily for later reuse/remodeling

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ONVIF

if this is a loft conversion or if the divider wall has a ventilated cavity or if your neighbour doesnt heat the other side of the wall, then sure; why pay to heat the world/neighbour and have a damp risk to boot?

Not much point insulating the back of the stud wall you've put up if you're going to leave the brick party wall uninsulated! It'll become a damp magnet, being generally colder than the rest of the surfaces in the room and a total pain in the arse to keep nicely decorated. Forget the 2cm gap...

Not for the man with the money, alas. It's funny though, that at the start the magical figure that gets things moving, is a thousand quid - every time you need professional input, their fee is a grand. Still.. towards the end of the job, it becomes 5 grand.. but at least you know you're...

40:1 is bordering on too steep; go for 80:1 instead. **** pipes are ugly, get them into the stack and get the stack into the ground asap

So, you'll never get to "go home" then.. ;) Keep an eye on your mental state; it takes a long time to become despondent about these things but it kinda sneaks up on you because it's gradual. An endless succession of bullshitting and letdowns from the trades you engage can get you if you're just...

Why are you putting a new stack on a side of the building that (on the attached plan) doesnt seem to have any waste water requirements? What does the upstairs floor look like? How thick is/can your floor be? (if the ww is only required on the upstairs, you can run the pipe across the house...

Chipboard boarding in a roof space might only be thin stuff intended for putting boxes on, not a 100kg guy carrying a 50kg roof truss... but if it's strong enough, you could do worse than rolling out a sheet of dpm on top of it to keep it dry.. it's not expensive, and the dpm will have a use...

Use LED GU10s; most of them are made of plastic

Skirting and decorative flooring is missing from the list. Insulating is too, though you might have been thinking to ball it up into "walls" or "roof", though you then run the risk of an ass job being made of it; maybe you'll do it yourself. Structural flooring will come before stairs, possibly...

Looks like the bricks above the front door have changed in your impression too; is that part of the job?