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It is a new PCB, the CH water never seems to fail so I follow your logic for the motor but I am right in thinking you would notice a intermittent fault on the CH side less because even if it was switching on and off on that side the rads would still get hot just take a little longer, yes...

Already checked motor like you suggested confirmed in earlier post, motor extends and retracts reliably depending on the left and right feed. Also checked plug feeds and both show same voltage 233 ish.

Just to clarify, Motor diverter pin needs to be fully extended (out) to push onto the mechanical pin to divert the water past the secondary HE to give HW. Therefore when the motor is removed the mechanical pin (not motor) is allowed to relax back out and not divert water past HE, yes? Would you...

Anyway the problem is that on occasions the motor is switching between HW and CH when I've checked the connection with the multimeter its switching after the two pins either side of the neutral get fed on and off for no apparent reason, in short, the motors working in and out because the feeds...

No Tony, definitely pushes in to engage the HW, when the motor is removed it allows the mechanical valve pin to come out and disconnect supply to the secondary HE. If the valve pin is then pushed in manually with a screwdriver ect you can hear the water flow around the HE and start to get hot...

Anyone else give me any ideas? Tony where you gone.

Thought that myself, but when the motor is out (HW) you cant shove the pin back obviously when the motor is retracted (CH) it can be shaken forward but just as easily pushed back therefore applying no forward pressure. Steve.

There has got to be logically two different feeds to push out and retract the motor, as soon as you remove the plug the motor stays where it is either out or in, just removed again and fed from the mains, one side pushes out the other retracts, like I said. This then implies that the motor is...

I've got the pdf's from there web site, installation & servicing guide and user instructions. steve.

got a headache what's M i's?

As your looking at it in situ, side mounted plug. when the bottom pin shows 240v the motor pushes in, when this fed goes away the top pin reads 240v and the motor retracts causing the water to be diverted to central heating, are you both saying this is not a feed to the top? theres never voltage...

The centre pin seems to be neutral, when the bottom pin then goes to 240v the motor pushes out when this feed goes away the top pin gets a 240v feed and the motor retracts. Only a lowly mechanical engineer not a sparky but sometimes the feed stays at the bottom and it works fine and you could...

Please read all previous posts. In short, I've taken off the motor actuator and checked the mechanical valve by pushing it in manually, I then get hot water = valve ok, I've then turned my attention to the motor part and this retracts and pushes out depending on which side of the solenoid...

Thanks but as my previous post, the valve is not sticking, its getting a current from one side of the acctuator to the other in short the motorised valve is being told to open close open close ect via the voltage.

One stage further, checked the wiring connection and the valve is the cause of my problem although its not failing when the water goes cold the live switches around on the solenoid(motorised valve) and diverts the water away from the HW heat exchanger and then back again to give me the hot water...

Tony, Removed the motor head as requested and the pin is in the furthest out position which means its pushing on the valve pin when in situ. when the hot water is run then, the boiler fires up but waters stone cold, has I thought without the valve pin being actuated (pushed in) the water...

Thanks for all the replies, I will do as you say this weekend and yes it is a graveley clicking sound. Just for clarification so that I can get it staight in my own mind, Is the valve normally in the secondary heat exchanger circulate mode? so that when rads (CH) are on this then actuates...

The problem is its not a constant problem, 1 minute later after turning the tap on and off a couple of times it stopped clicking and hey presto Hot water! do they go intermittent or usually fail altogether?

More info! Water again running cold then hot cold ect, burner definetly still running with central heating turned off. I am unable to say where the water is going as the heating was on just previously but obviously as previous posts have suggested it must be going to the rads. Definately a...

Thanks, had the cover off again and checked the wiring, all seems fine. Am i right in thinking that the primary sensor controls the central heating temperature then? Unusually (touch wood) I have had no problems at all with the rads getting warm just the HW. All working fine at the moment will...