Search results

Here are the photos. It was much more obvious by eye, for some reason the holes with daylight coming through don't really show up on the photos

Yeah I won't be going up purely for safety reasons, but the repair will be cutting out all the sodden OSB, laying fresh, and then as you mention laying/overlaying with another layer of flexible GRP. Waiting for a couple of quotes on that.

well for the benefit of future, it turns out you were exactly right. I scraped off some of the mushy osb from below (there's a thin hard crust on the bottom) and I can see clusters of pinholes though to outside in the GRP. Presumably that quadrant of the roof was not consolidated properly and...

I don't know, whatever fuss you can think of! All i know is what happened with my neighbour, and it was all picked up by an annual boiler service. Perhaps there was another issue with the incoming supply, but as far as the householder knew it was their own pipe buried in screed with an issue...

if that's indoors the distributor prefer all pipework that's not isolatable to be outside. I can see a little pipework before the ECV that's inside. So you could get the whole lot moved outside for free if you make a fuss. Our neighbour got the pavement and drive dug up and a new meter...

Sorry to hear you have hurt yourself and I hope your get better soon. In terms of opinions based on what you said I should say 90% her contribution, 1% the water company and 5% your contribution. In terms of liability I would recommend reporting to the council and if you want to take it...

You can get a bag of 40n concrete, just add water from Wickes for a tenner. I used a couple of bags inside the tray of a recessed inspection cover and it seemed easy enough to use https://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-High-Strength-Ready-To-Use-Concrete-40N---20kg/p/133771 I feel like making the...

Stuff the acoustic rockwool around it and board around that with something heavy eg cement board or that purple plasterboard, ideally a double layer. Make sure the pipe is not touching any timbers, ideally clip to dense material only ie brick wall

If it's after the heating has been on it may be condensation, as the warmer air from the house rises into the cold space behind the removed plasterboard and condenses in the loft. If so, you need to get the plasterboard back in place and seal all other holes into the loft. And make sure the loft...

All runs need to be accessible for cleaning either from one end or the other. But for sink waste runs you could use one of those drain snake things, you wouldn't really "rod" then in the same way as 4 inch underground drainage or soil pipes.

I don't think it was a joke, better to do that than start chopping 50mm off the end? Is it an off the shelf lintel? As above you would need a structural engineer if you're using it outside the data sheet, unless you can get the manufacturer to do the design for you based on your own analysis...

I pu glued and screwed 18mm ply rips to our floor which was 2 by 7s notched half way in places, and added herringbone strutting across the full run in two places, and as a whole it helped a lot. Not sure which part was most helpful. It was a lot of work though, but the floors were up anyway...

Yeah it's out of sight but it could be better. Architect mentioned the whole roof, structure and all, looked like it had been "thrown together" and the structural engineer wasn't so impressed either. The warmer the underside of the deck, the less condensation there would be. It's precisely...

I took some photos from when the roof was built 5 years ago, here are just a few of them in case it says anything useful

Thanks @oldbutnotdead I had another look today and I'm also leaning towards condensation more. Very helpful point about the fungus. The dew point of the air in the house is about 12c at the moment, and it's only 5c outside right now, so any leak of inside air that rises and can't dissapate due...

Thanks @blup for your extra response In terms of a warm roof, I'm sure it's a cold roof. Both in terms of the insulation being at ceiling level rather than rafter level, and in terms of the insulation being below the level of the OSB rather than on top. As a result the roof void itself is an...

Thanks very much for your reply @blup And a happy new year to you. That's roofing breathable membrane in pic 2. The pic is facing towards the front roughly beside the skylight. The other is also close to the skylight. The ventilation is via the membrane and gaps around the edges, it could be...

Hi all, thanks in advance for any comments or replies to this worrying issue. I noticed some mould on the underside of the flat roof part of the loft. It was built and covered in fibreglass 5 years ago. I thought it was condensation at first but after the warm (and rainy) weather it's still...

If you insulate the floor the loft will get very cold and therefore mouldy. You would have to add plenty of ventilation to outside and maybe a fan on a timer to blow air from in the corners. And ideally some dehumidifier or background heating.

So to get this clear, the steel beam will be entirely on the warm side of the insulation, to the tune of 25mm celotex? In which case it sounds reasonable to me, but the architect would calculate. You really need the beam to either be on the warm side entirely (preferable) or on the cold side. It...