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in that situation I got a couple of 200mm screws and a bit of 4 by 2, screwed through the 4 by 2 into the top of the post, nd ten levered it out with the help of some bricks etc, kicking it to loosen between each time I levered it. The bottom was in surprisingly good condition having been...

triangulation. the steel has alot of bending moment especilly at the face of the brickwork, whereas the block of wood will spread that across the surrounding area.a Wood itself is not as strong but the shape of the support is important.

It's mostly bending stress at the middle and little shear. You would need to leave at least 100mm in my non professional opinion purely based on the fact that 4 by 2 joists would be just about ok for that span (but ask your friendly structural engineer) Just make sure there's no big knots in the...

The whole thing seems a bit complicated, but basically you want to feel confident to clear all runs from either inside or outside, ideally going downstream. Looking at the diagram you seem to have separate runs that could be combined (left hand room on the first drawing) Other than that I can't...

Oh I didn't go through the whole lot! 1.40 would be slightly more obtuse bends, but not that you'd notice. The standard bends are about 92.5 degrees although they are flexible enough for either. Let time I checked, at least 1.40 was the recommendation in British standard whatever, but you can go...

Bit late, so for future reference, depending on the spans - 7 by 2s could do 4m+ for a loft on their own, so depending on relative stiffness you might find most of the load is taken by the cross battens.

Fall seems a bit tight given how low the invert in the inspection chamber is, can't you push it up to 1..40 to get more leeway?

Assuming ob1 is one of those sticks all type polymer adhesive then it would be fine as long as the surfaces are sound, those seem like magic, I used it extensively on our roof to good effect holding cut tiles in place

Worth considering a planning application, depending on the likely effect on the surroundings, might be cheaper overall?

Don't bother with the membrane, it's just needed to stop the layers mixing but if the ground is stable and not sopping wet, and it's got paving stones on top and you're not driving heavy vehicles around then nothings going to mix anyway.

Sorry didn't finish my post last night, you can always tape sheets if you're worried about mess. And if you have a small shallow gap then some cheap caulk would do.

Big gaps, foam but don't overdo it, and trim it off flush. You can always masking tape plastic sheets to the floor

Board joints? Or where the plasterer's arm stretched to when they finished it? Most walls look terrible when a light shines across the surface though, make the light softer would be my suggestion.

Sound proof doesn't really exist, you can reduce the sound though. What kind of sound are you concerned about, is it sounds from within the room or footsteps or other impact noise? I'd say use as much weight in the wall as possible, ideally with double plasterboard each side fitted to...

if the building is 45m2 then it will still be subject to building control, so the 30m2/1m exemption will not apply. Therefore you may still have to limit the unprotected areas based on the actual distance from the boundary - but a lot depends on the actual definition of unprotected areas and...

I can't answer other than to say anything is possible given the budget but a relevant question is, are the lapped joists floor joists or is this some kind of dormer bungalow? If they happen to be below roof space it will be easier to support, but I'm guessing it's a more traditional layout...

Couldn't have put it better myself, thanks!

I found mesh tape easier (as a first time diyer) but it did seem to need a thicker layer to avoid showing through, which was relevant when jointing where there was no taper for whatever reason. Another tip is the tape with two metal strips in was really good for the non-90% corners we had.

I had the same question before and after research I found knauf's version only needs priming if you're going to skim it (presumably due to the weight) and is fine for (presumably jointing) and then painting directly. I didn't have any joints because it was an ensuite ceiling. See there info at...

What's on the other side of the fence? If it's a highway (or canal!) or similar, you can treat it as having the boundary in the middle. If it's someone's garden then they might want to do the same building as you.