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So just as an update, after chatting with velux techincal this morning - The frames are indeed different part numbers as you mentioned, however they are cross compatible (without the full benefits of the --62 system) Velux are going to quote me for two options - 1. the complete sash, and 2...

John no offence but I suspect you're the kind of person who has a garage full of stuff that never officially existed in the first place

I think it's this one (see below), which looks tempting although it's within a few percent the same price as the whole 2062 window! I'm going to try the foam trick first. That bedroom is a spare room so not occupied much. And the windows are effectively in the vaulted ceiling, so the manual...

Thanks for the tips about foam I'll have a go at that. Roller shutters is a good shout, hadn't though of that. Might be cheaper even for the fancy solar powered ones then a whole window.

Thanks yes I emailed but I realised I wouldn't get an answer until Monday (and sometimes the answer is officially no but actually yes) Thanks is that the frame to roof interface that's different or just the sash to frame interface? I might end up leaning out the window bedding a hip above in...

Hi all, my question is - are the frames of velux windows (post 2014) all compatible between double and triple glazed? I.e. is it possible to swap just the sash of a velux 2070 to the triple glazed 2062 without changing the actual frame? My situation is I have two velux GGL CK02 2070 i.e. the...

Why does it need to be so square? Those kind of fittings usually seals and clamps miles away from the end. Leaks are more likely to be caused by forces on the fitting, for the sake of 2 minutes I'd probably wrap it in something compressible before burying it in anything hard.

Also check the bricks are secure that you're sticking to. Especially if it's something kids might swing on.

Is the red wall a retaining wall with drains in it? If not I doubt there would be an issue caused by just the water falling on the steps. What issue are you anticipating?

They might have just been put there for decoration, you might be the first person to notice an issue. They should be draining to a soak away or falling that surface water drain IE same place as the other gutters, not the same place as the toilets and sinks. Looking at that,I don't know why they...

If it's for planning then it's the appearance and drainage they will be concerned about . I take the previous posters points about drainage. Perhaps someone went for stripy lime green and pink tarmac in the past and they've been burned by it. I would be tempted to just say tarmac, standard...

The use by date is very pessimistic, and you can check it by just looking at it. I've been using some that's over 6 months out of date for bedding roof tiles. After we moved in I found some cement in the damp shed in a plastic rubble sack and I used it for something, it was fine, it must have...

Unless they are machine cut they will have ragged edges anyway so the exact dimensions is not really relevant, you will find the 900 ones need bigger joints but you can keep it all within a reasonable tolerance. Also when you point them consider using some mortar dye, as the grey mortar is...

And sorry your question about screwing them, I would be a bit nervous in case it splits them more

In the absence of other replies... If the roof is still weather tight I would personally prop it in the current position or maybe lift the tiniest bit, just to stop any progressive movement or cyclical movement due to temporary load IE snow or wind If you start jacking it up, tiles may be...

The main thing is distribute the different sizes pretty evenly, and also make sure there are no X joints, only T joints. It just looks a bit strange if you have crosses. You can find example laying patterns online or just make it up as you go along.

It's the height above the ground level immediately beside the building that matters. Although if you start digging down further then a nominal amount you would need building regs and maybe planning permission as it turns into something major when it's effectively a basement. If it is important...

Sounds a pain! Lesson learnt, discuss at the quote stage and add a "liaise with bco" fee to the quote if necessary. Or use a private inspector you get on with.

That's fine if they are less than 15sqm, however if they are over 15sqm they attract building control. One way around that is to make the external walls non combustible and keep it below 30sqm instead, which I assume is what the op is after

The point is to get the right bearing area by making the surfaces at the same angle, and generally less notching is better!