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The waste doesn't have to go to the manhole, it has to join in the direction of flow. if it's downstream of the manhole then it's going to point away. It's still going to need some form of access to clear blockages though.

It's not ok for permitted development because it's over 2.5m maximum height and within 2m of the boundary. Since it'sa shed built out of blocks non combustible and less then 30m2 floor area then it's exempt from building regulation even though it's within 1m of the boundary

Pros and cons of each, if you build timber into masonry it's more likely to stay damp and rot. But if you build it on top of the piers you will need to make sure it's stable. Personally I'd go for onto the ground, if the piers are well protected from weather and there's a Dpc in place.

The pressure of even 10cm of water would be 1kn/m2, which may not sound much but when it's inside even the tiniest movement gap it will let plenty of water through. I have no experience but I would have thought for economy you'd either need a fully supported watertight membrane or a pump in the...

Doubt it, the wall has all the bricks above weighing down on it. A free standing pillar I could believe, but not a house wall, unless the wall has other issues. Photos might help.

you would only need to tank the room if you're expecting the floor to be used as a shower tray and having a drain in it. If it's just a bit of splashing that will dry naturally then there's no need for tanking. any noggins for this purpose can just be 3x2 as they are only spanning half a metre...

I think hearsay from the builder about the building inspector - even if you heard it directly from the building inspector, you would be wise to listen to robin's point above.

I doubt it, when we had ours done the SE came to inspect and found no real foundation so he specified a 1m deep pad 600x600 or so. I know a lot of it is belt and braces at someone else's cost, but it's not something you want to skimp on.

Full fill wool would be cheaper if it's suitable. Do you have a target u value or just whatever is economical?

Bulk bags are usually between 750kg and 900kg depending where you get them from which is less than 0.5m3. I think it's to allow a weight safety margin even when saturated. You must have massive bins if they take up 5ft by 8 ft! That's 3.7m2 which would make .37m3 of concrete if it's 100mm deep...

The reason you can't go too close to the end is that the shear load is greatest there. If they are 55mm wide that's an odd size but it will help with the shear strength. You could go to a structural engineer and get them to calculate if you're worried

If the span is only 2.4m then the load would be relatively smaller, if you're taking out 50mm or so,I would say as long as the joists are 170mm or more it would be fine. But you can't sue me if your house falls down. Ply is quite good for making things feel stiffer but it won't affect the...

Cut the clay pipe back underground if it's clay and connect a new 110mm pipe into it with one of those Flexi rubber connectors with jubilee clips. Then reduce the 110 to 50 and run the 50 to your island. You don't really need 110 for a sink and dishwasher. Ours is a similar set-up and it's been...

I'm suddenly wondering whether we're over engineering something you're intending to be very simple and not really permanent.! If you are happy to lay the blocks on flat you could scrape the soil into the middle, level the outside, and lay 2 courses on their sides dry to make it 200mm high, and...

As above and if it's not rendered look and see the bond, if you can see the ends of some of the bricks, it's probably solid. Air bricks can be a good way to look inside without drilling. Age of house can help, 30s on was usually cavity

So it looks like the soil pipe used to vent out that vent tile. Then someone needed to fit an extractor fan, so they disconnected the soil pipe and put an aav on, then connected the extractor fan in its place. At some point someone has butchered the membrane using an axe by the looks. My guess...

What a lovely post, more thanks then the Oscars :) glad I could be useful and I hope it goes well

must be still on the life of crime perhaps!

There's a youtube video that calculated that a cheap 63x38 CLS stud wall could hold something like 350kg on each stud without buckling, which makes sense but does make you think it could be mid span across a floor with 10 by 2 joists across 10m span (if you could get the length) and it would all...

yes you'll have to use strong mortar and probably protect from frost as the blocks will often be saturated