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maybe thats where 2 sheets of ply abut? might fix itself when humidity drops fix might be strip the felt and overboard thin ply with joints going vertically down the roof then refelt. Or use t&g OSB

I would use boards not sandbags to spread the ladder weight across the tiles, and I'd tie the ladder to eyes fixed to the wall at both top and bottom of the ladder. No point taking risks with your life. If they are concrete tiles you should be able to walk on them fine.

Just watch what you use as depending on the slabs you can crack them in half easily. Don't use metal directly on them, use wood in between

Yes also in external wall, just the basic concrete one you buy from Wickes or wherever

Lintel would be needed in an internal brick wall. Easiest way for me would be batten out the wall with 3 by 2 treated, trimming around any required niche, then cement board or whatever your favoured board is, then you can apply the waterproofing tapes and tile, or whatever finish you're after.

true but I wouldn't be arguing over the rainwater from around 1m2 of roof, as long as the flashing is correct it won't cause an issue. It's a nice idea to use coping stones rather than ridge tiles as it will keep the wall further out of harms way.

180 headroom on the lower lift might be a problem - even if you're 180cm tall you also have to add your shoe soles and your movement as you take a step. Also the bottom ladder you might want to run off a small first lift, then have a removable ladder for security reasons. Worth asking for...

I think they did reuse them to save cost. We have a beam in our loft that has a moulding on the top, and doesn't match the rest of the rough sawn 2x4s. Also the hearth in the upstairs main bedroom had an old rim of a car wheel and something else random in there as reinforcement! That is a 100...

If the joists are vertical, lay the wood on top of the gap at 90 degrees and put your pencil in the gap and draw it. That saves measuring. Also it's not as critical as you imply, if you bend the wood a few mm to the side. It's just the last one has to fit right. If it's really far out you could...

Is it an external wall above? Could externally insulate the wall if possible. Also add a vcl behind the plasterboard

Better to just talk to the neighbour, the party wall palaver is more suited to things like steel beams, not cutting flashings into the wall. Regarding the photo have you been able to take one from straight on rather than the side? I find it hard to believe they built the top of the wall not on...

No one has replied so my tip would be either do it and hope no one complains, or apply for a lawful development certificate from the council. I suspect you would technically need planning permission as it's a separate development from the existing patio and more than 300mm from the ground level...

Agree with the mushroom vents, you need equivalent of 25mm continuous ventilation across both opposing sides of a flat roof. A dry ridge would not provide that. That ridge detail is not right really, with no height to play with maybe a lead flashing bonded to the flat roof might be better? I'm...

Yes wipe over with acetone before applying the top coat

Looking again it might also be too thin a layer, the verge course should be kicked up a bit. To do it properly it would be rake out and rebed the whole verge but you could probably do a bit of patching. You don't want to leave potentially loose lumps of mortar up above your head either way.

You would have to wash it and then wipe with acetone after. The top coat is designed to protect the resin from UV so any colour is fine. Normally dark grey is used. You don't want to go too thick as apparently it can crack with too many layers. Not sure why. Normally the manufacturer...

This is why dry verge is the new way. Probably the mortar was too wet or not enough sharp sand. I'd be more interested in the lack of guttering, is that going to be rectified?

Perfect thanks for the reassurance @datarebal

Might be hard to get the required strength? Normally it would have to be something harder

Just adding a small section to the roof, I will end up with some slivers at the verge. Can i adjust the bond on that small section of roof (rather than keeping all the joints in line) Then I will have just over half a tile at the verge which is more workable. Or any other suggestion-no such...