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fair enough point taken. If it was me I would use smaller noggings e.g. 6 by 2 on an 8 by 2 rafter just to be on the safe side. Could always rip them down to use up the offcuts.

I'm not sure. But I'm also confused what's going on - is it a redundant serving hatch you are bricking up, or is it a hatched area on a drawing you are doing something with? - you need to post photos and any documents you are relying on

Can't see your picture but have you toothed it in instead? Go back and check with the engineer, but I'm sure building in the frame cramps are just a way to avoid matching up the courses etc but still tying it in.

I thought it was also to direct any condensation coming off the back of the tiles to the gutter and the tiles thing was just a bonus?

That membrane is done wrongly, it should be draped between the rafters. Unless they have counter battened which I doubt. That would be a retile and rebatten job. It may not be causing your issue but it's a general indicator of the work.

The 150mm upstand would be a minimum to prevent water splashing off the roof surface getting in. You would only have to worry about how far it protrudes based on any planning/permitted development requirements that apply eg on a front elevation.

225mm is quite a big one, standard domestic one that picks up several houses would be 100mm or 4 inch, this is over 5 times the area so it must cover the whole estate. Even for 150mm ones you usually have to put a camera in before and after to confirm nothing is affected. For yours the size...

Conservatories are usually exempt from building control approval anyway. Planning permission is totally separate. Also, don't take anything your installer tells you on Dave value - compliance is legally down to the homeowner.

Hi all hope you're well I've just taken the lead off our flat to pitched roof drip and it's a right state underneath after 5 years. This is because the flat roof deck is impermeable so any condensation will form on the cold lead as it goes underneath it. It's a cold roof above the loft storage...

Unless the roof covering has been replaced edit-with something heavier or a strut removed, I'd go for the principle of it's not going anywhere. You can look down the street and see if it's similar to the rest, assuming there are rows of similar houses.

If it's a wall tie sales person coming then they will try to sell wall ties regardless. You would need a professional surveyor or structural engineer to advise, they would cost a bit but could provide a remediation plan according your requirements

Some insulation you can full fill but normal pir is not one of them. It's supposed to be kept dry. The air gap wouldn't make a big difference, the foil face might be negated only.

Might involve a bit of lead flashing/apron, you could always ask the manufacturer in case they have a better solution

Why has it slipped is there a foundation issue or the walls not tied in either side? I would say work out the underlying issue first, then once things are stabilised you can repoint and rerender. I'm not a pro though so look out for other suggestions here

Yeah it definitely should have been against the inner leaf, and I don't see how it is going to be fixed other than rebuilding the outer leaf again. Our builder did similar although the insulation was just floating around loose in the cavity and it was a rebuild job needed. Did you have a proper...

The important thing is that your hole for the concrete had a flat bottom and vertical sides, so that the foundation won't move progressively as the soil changes through the seasons. If it's a pad for a post holding up a corner of your house, it becomes important to get it in the middle, but for...

I would say the verge needs removing, cleaning and rebedding and pointing. If you just try to point that up it will drop out again. You could consider a dry verge system.

You can't patch in at the side without somehow fixing them together with rebar. How close is too close to the edge? You could build right on the edge, it's called an eccentric foundation and isn't likely to be a problem for something lightweight.

The crusts will just be whatever was dissolved in the moisture that is evaporating, could be salts or limescale or whatever, but it won't hurt anything

If there's no issue now, just make sure the ventilation is clear, and go right ahead.