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great question! yeah it buckles up, basically if the fixing isn't 100% on all the boards you won't likely notice, but if it is jammed against a solid edge you would notice straight away as it literally makes a hump in the floor

Hardcore is backfill, and also you can't compact it in layers of a foot, more like 4 inches. I think you need to get this specified properly to avoid a very expensive mistake, rather than guessing and relying on randoms on the internet

my thoughts (I'm not an expert) seems like a lot of expense, why not repair and insulate the hall floor as needed and fit suitable UFH for suspended floor? You're going to struggle to infill 1.7m unless you get a steamroller in! as made up ground is liable to settle too much. If you planned to...

Anything thin that can be laid over the floorboards will help with draughts but not insulation. However given how draughty most suspended floors are, this can be a massive improvement for your house! Regarding the benefit from 100mm PIR this will be very big, but again the draughts must be...

Just for clarity, you need to seal the ceiling to make sure no air can get through "air/vapour barrier", however, counterintuitively, the less actual insulation you have, the better for condensation, as the warmth will dry out the loft a bit. Concentrate on the sealing around holes, gaps and...

not necessarily - one could say it's smart to go home early if you get paid regardless! To the OP, I think the main goal is stopping any house air getting through to the loft. A bit of surface condensation will dry out, but it shouldn't be building up anywhere (ie dripping anywhere or soaking...

2x5 wouldn't be possible at all if you want your roof to slope the right way, but have you thought about using SIPs instead, then you combine your insulation into your structure. There are span tables for sips with reinforcement, but even then 5m sounds like a stretch to me. Can you break up the...

Awful! Those ripples are a big problem, also the bumps/exposed mat (and pinholes?) Will let water in. The fall is not enough but GRP can be laid to zero fall. Perhaps GRP was chosen as an alternative to fixing the fall on the roof?

It won't be a great idea for fire spread across wall linings either. Maybe a calculated risk for a single room but don't go putting it on your escape route.

I'm not a pro but I did our patio and driveway. As far as I know as long as it's not swimming, the whole point of the hard core is to spread the load. As long as you get the proper thickness, the damp soil won't have any concentrated load. We had a few wet areas and a few areas that were quite...

Shall not be attached to the wall in any way, but it's attached to the floor and ceiling which are in turn attached to the party wall. I would have thought taking it down to the over site concrete/hardcore would be better if you can. I've not done it myself though, just a thought. Impact noise...

Yes that must be gutting to waste materials like that. according to my online research, you have to use an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the roof deck, if it's in the sun it can be easily too hot to lay, even if the air temperature is alright. It seems that keeping the sun...

The initial laying wasn't up to scratch, it was done under a tin hat by the builder, but it was December so probably cooler than it could have been ideally. I think they did it in a rush and didn't get the air bubbles out. It's only 5 years old now. I only noticed it soaking through the OSB last...

It's got to be heavy to work, but why is the person doing it not isolating it from the wall? Having it rest on the party wall provides a path for the sound to bypass the soundproof part of the wall.

Just to add to this, the reason I'm only looking at GRP is it's an existing pinholed GRP roof, and I only need to do 2/3 of it and I'm hoping not to touch the lead edge that drips onto the pitched roof on two sides. Not to mention the party wall ridge and the edge that goes under the tiles...

Great question and I'm interested in this too as I'm doing a smaller roof and trying to understand. From my research the standard ones that are about 100 quid for 20kg are the same polyester resin with low styrene. The flexible ones are a different formulation which escapes me at this time of...

It does do something it's designed to collect any condensation or drips on the underside of the tiles and take them to the gutter. It should be draped slightly to allow water to run down. You really need to seal the ceiling better and also add lap vents or eaves ventilation where possible

not being funny but was it actually raining around the time the water dripped or dry outside? since the weather has been so cold, condensation might be the issue. That would happen in cold weather rather than in wet weather.

Click noise is normal for a mechanical gas meter fishy smell is classic wiring insulation overheating and needs urgently checking out. If it only happens eg when you have a shower it could be undersized or loose wiring but don't delay in getting it checked as it's a fire risk.

Funny that is cheaper, cement is expensive compared with aggregate alone. You'd only pay say 50 pounds a tonne for aggregate, whereas cement is say 200 pounds a tonne on top of that. So a concrete base could easily cost double in materials. Also aggregate is easy to adjust and you just whacker...