Search results

The useful condensation happens anywhere there is a surface cooler than the flue products. So it could be the heat exchanger all the way through to the terminal of the flue. Anywhere beyond that and the heat will be lost outside into the great outdoors. It's not something that happens once and...

I'm too young to know how one of those works, but if you Google something along the lines of premix Venturi zero governor You shouldn't be too far away from the answers

Looks more like someone had the task of disposing of some unneeded concrete and found a convenient hole to throw it in?! Or it could just be rodding access in substitute for a chamber that's been removed due to an extension Perhaps there are other inspection covers you can lift, maybe this is...

Just to add to that, the dew point is when the water starts to condense out. At that point the humidity would be 100% by definition. as the temperature drops the capacity of the air drops still further and water continues to condense out (all the way down to room temperature and beyond) I...

That's very interesting, given the increase in heat pumps trying to get energy from the outside air at 5c at 80% humidity. You'd have thought a stream of flue gas at 50c and 100% humidity would be an attractive target for a heat pump. I wonder how long before boilers start having flue gas heat...

Not sure if silence is agreement or just missed the reply, but I popped up and took a photo of the area above the new room and the existing room Especially over the old external wall is worst, presumably because all the air from the internal plasterboard exits there. Any further thoughts or...

Thanks for the tip cdbe I did see people suggesting that online but there was debate about how to make sure it fills adequately from one hole to the next. Also I hate the stuff! :) I was thinking of knocking the board to find all the "dots" near the ceiling, cutting between them, and clagging...

Thanks for the reply. Basically the only areas with the ridiculously bad condensation are directly above that room especially lower down the roof plane. The other rooms are original l&p ceiling with solid plastered walls and that's an extension. And I know the builders did dot and Dab and...

Conductivity (r value) is the inverse of the u value. The R value is used for individual components as you can add them up easily based on the thickness. Then you calculate the u value for the whole buildup because that's the useful number. To match 100mm of mineral wool with 10mm thickness...

Thanks for your reply, Yes it's ventilated to the regs but the warm humid air is pouring out behind the plasterboard as the void space connects all the way down to the kitchen, so the ventilation doesn't have much chance in this weather. But I'm all ears in case there's another solution. As far...

Hi all, hope everyone is well . Just have a puzzler here for you. I need to chase around the top edge or thereabouts of the plasterboard in our upstairs bedroom. (This is because the builders didn't do a full bed for the dot and Dab and the loft is dripping wet, and there's no access above to...

Interesting problem! Water pressure does get huge, in laypersons terms 1m of water weighs 1kg/10N over each 10cm by 10cm square. So the bottom 10cm of your wall would have nearly 60kg/600N pushing it out. And the next 10cm has 50kg/500N (or so) etc. Integrate it and you'll end up with force...

They are changing something though, they're increasing the insulation! If you add insulation you make things colder towards the outside. That's why condensation risk analysis exists.

You'd be surprised how much water can go down a short length of standard hose pipe, even with only 20cm head. But of course if it's a decent size roof and the level is close to the overflow/top you will lose some. Another tip I think hasn't been mentioned is you can keep the same level in...

Just because the back drain is combined doesn't mean the front is. Our house has combined at the back but the front is surface water only. Two downpipes go into the surface and one into the foul. In our area the foul drain emerges at the front between every second pair of houses, so if you're...

Mira flight safe is my recommendation. You used to be able to get them delivered via Screwfix, but even if not, you can get them online. Throw away the supplied trap and get a macalpine Chrome one with a grille.

Agree with the oil or you can use a Danish oil which is an oil that has a varnish mixed in so it is a bit more durable but still soaks in. You can get various branded ones like osmo and Rustin's.

Only if there is work done that affects it, so it would depend whether an existing non protected exit route would be considered better than fully open plan. Common sense would suggest yes as you imply, but I suspect in reality they would be treated as separate.

If you're worried just apply for what you want, if you don't get it either build want you have permission for, or build what you want.

The pointing will make it worse not better. As long as water doesn't puddle up against the house you should be ok. Especially in a cavity wall. Just watch that the surface is well below the damp proof course.