Search results

Where does the black cable in the single socket go to?

I would say so, transfer the L’s and N’s and then NO (black) to terminal 4. I don’t know why you bought the 2 channel but hopefully you can use it.

If there’s slack/play on the flex, it would be better to make the earth wire more slack as it seems tight and shouldn’t be the last to pull out if the cable comes out.

No link only required where it’s not provided, yours is from the boiler. Black would go to Com and grey to On

If it’s the right hand hydrablock, then not a DIY job

Possibly blew the 3 amp fuse. Have you tried reconnecting the old one?

Ok, it’s one of a few possibilities: your new thermostat is faulty, the existing thermostat was wired up incorrectly, you have a short via touching copper wires or have created a short by introduction, for example driving a nail into the wiring on the thermostat route (I’ve encountered this once)

Are you connecting the blue wire?

Usually on those Honeywell dial stats are 2 neutral, so makes sense. @enz - new stat only needs the red and yellow (to A and B) as above as new stat is battery powered. Safely isolate the neutral wire (we’re thinking the blue)

I’d be looking in the kitchen or any downstairs bathroom/toilet area.

Off the stopcock to inside, is it copper?

Fused connection unit?

It’s the 3rd one

It looks like it yes.

Ok, maybe look at a smart immersion switch then. Unless you use anything else, eg motorised valve(s).

I’ve been told by electricians that it depends on the incoming supply (being PE), but also been told it needs to be bonded regardless.

Are you planning to just replace that timer? If so, with what, eg what are your requirements? Did you want heating and hot water control but maybe looking at the wrong device?

I don’t think that will work, as: 1, it’s an immersion heater timer and 2, not suitably amp rated

No idea why you’ve hijacked an older thread that’s different to your setup. Anyway, have you definitely used the RT terminal at the boiler end?

It may be that you need a Hive mutizone kit or hub. It might be able to be done on the switching side of the zone valve, but not something I'm au fait with