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Yes, all ok. Also correct about piggybacking from the A1 and A2 as you call them

Ok. So what might be best for you to do (if you feel confident/comfortable), have a look inside the control box - fairly easy. See if the original installation has been wired up, if it has, remove the link and test it all works correctly. If it works you've just saved yourself some money. If it...

I've found no issue with Vaillants aftercare, but suppose it can vary depending on location

Same components and same layout I believe. Personally I think a lot boils down to how it's been installed and onto what type of system. We have still got some Vaillant that are from 2006 with only needing wear and tear components. We also have some Vaillants that have been replaced at age 10...

Vaillant and GlowWorm part of the same group. The difference being price and some Vaillant I believe are the GlowWorm footprint, so paying for the Vaillant name.

Correct. Might be worth checking before considering any other control setup, especially if it's not needed

Are you sure that it's not the factory link that's been left in on the boiler PCB? This would keep it activated regardless of any demand.

No ideas why, but a lot of BG stuff is rebadged so likely a Drayton. I think the LP112 is still available so it would be a case of remove existing and clip new onto backplate

I would say it’s a case of working out if both wires to L and N are required, if they are then keep the same, if not transfer the ones that are. Number 4 would go to L out and L in would need a link to L. Number 4 is also the Live to the room stat and the room stat switch live to the boiler so...

If the OP can get the new tail in deep enough, ime, it’s rarely the case.

I think you may need to add additional pipework, due to the existing connection and new tail will be slightly longer.

When you say too narrow, is it slack?

What does it say in the instructions or their website? Maybe rather than buy cheap brass, get decent ones?

Yes often available separately but depends on the manufacturer. Depends on your DIY capabilities/comforts.

Yep, needs to be higher than it is currently. Open it for about 10 seconds, close it and return to the boiler

Better late than never :unsure::LOL:

Correct, yes The fault iirc is self clearing once water has been added

It doesn’t even make sense why it’s there in the 1st place.

E119 as per the boiler. Just behind the gate valve should be the other handle to turn, but could be a single handle type, which is the black handle to the left of the pressure gauge.

Likley the microswitch then