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H Mark. Do you still check this forum? Im wondering if I can ask you about this post: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/single-pipe-system-poor-flow-through-rads.303135/ As I have the exact same issue right now.

Thank you, you make a lot of sense. What sort of person or company would you look for to come in and help?

The pump is Grundfos UPS3. I read online that there should be a 20c differential between the output valve and the return valve, so was measuring the first pump and the magnetic filter. I was getting 68c and 55c earlier using Constant Pressure mode 1 on the CH return pump, and constant speed 2...

I did turn the pump down, but I noticed the water did not seem to be flowing into some of the radiators very well. The TRV valve side and top of the rad was hot, but the bottom and return lockshield was cool if not cold. Picture of the radiator in question attached. The actual pipe around the...

Okay. 1 is 60c. 2 is 34c 3 is 44c 4 is 36c

Sorry I should have clarified. My bills are roughly 800, but that's gas and elec. They are roughly 50/50 in split. I can understand elec being high. We have two washing machines, a dryer and a dishwasher that run quite a lot because of messy children, along with an air pump that heats my home...

I've tried experimenting with closing off radiators, and the ones that are left on I really need. It's kitchen and bathrooms that are open. I also only run it for an hour or two a day. But because of the single pipe and huge boiler, it still costs a fortune anyway. My question was whether my...

It's removing the shroud I'm stuck on. Does it pull off? Screw off? There's nothing obvious for a spanner to grip on.

No I only have two or three on that are controlled by Honeywell TRVs. The ones in the kitchen and hallways are not smart controlled and are on if the heating is on. That's about 6.

How would I best remove that? My spanner can't get any purchase

Thanks. How do I remove whatever this is? It's leaking.. I can remove the ones that are more modern looking on my other radiators.

I've had a few leaking TRV's recently. On the more traditional ones, I unscrew the top cap and then use a spanner to remove the nut. If I remove this cap, I'm left with a spindle and no visible nut. How do I get this thing off?

Sorry this took a few days to reply, i was back in the office. So I've tried to take the temps, I think. Im not 100% sure what I'm looking for in results though. So central heating, just after the moterised vale (MV), was 39c without HW running. The return pipe, just before the pump, was a...

Got you. So the top motorised valve is for the heating, and the bottom motorized valve is for the hot water. They both work independently and are powered by the Honeywell Total connect system. The pump on the right of the LLH is direct from the boiler. The top pump on the left of the LLH is...

Sorry, I'm not 100% sure what you mean. What zone valves are you referring to? Do you mean the Radiator TRV's?

They are all the same style/type, large cast iron rads. But some are larger than others. It's Grade 2. We have part of the house double glazed, but the previous owners were refused permission to do the front.

I do have one. It reads at 65c just before getting to the low loss header, and around 42-46c on the return.

Do you mean there is a temp dial behind the foam cover? I am reluctant to remove the zipties to remove it as I don't have any to replace them with. If I need too I can order some today. The boiler is set to 73c on it's output.

Bad. The loft is fully insulated but we have single brick walls and single glazed windows. But it's listed and we can't change those things. I'm looking into indoor insulation but it's not cheap.

I don't think I've seen this in the menu options for my boiler. To read them from the low loss header, do you mean use a thermometer on the pipes or should there be a dial? I have never removed the insulation on the llh before so it might be under that.