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This is going to be the Mother of all doors if ever it's finished. Then.... we'll start on the other side of it. :shock: There is however, what could be a problem. :cry: In 1 of the pics, there appears to be some wood glue used and it's been wiped off, mainly on the mid stile, but...

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=10298531&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372013}/categories%3C{9372030}/categories%3C{9372124}/specificationsProductType=interior_woodcare/specificationsSpecificProductType=wood_varnish Ronseal is also available...

The answer is no to your MDF question. Now, back to terence's hardwood door ;) The Dec asks a good question which is why I initially said "If it's bare wood, I'd just use water based (quick dry) clear satin varnish, because that pic looks a bit odd. I did several new hardwood doors in a...

Totally disagree with that. Oil based varnishes have always raised the grain and it will need rubbing down the same as would oil based primers for paint. In fact I'd say with all the water based stain and clear varnishing I've done on stripped doors etc...water based needs less rubbing down...

That would also be the same with oil based varnish or worse. If you worried about that everytime you had to paint wood, then you'd never paint or varnish any wood ..ever.

I meant 14 c 31

I remember once I painted the dining room at Telephone House , Opal 10 c 31 and that sent the union woman into a hysterical spin and she demanded it to be changed as she said it was making everybody sick.

If it's bare wood, I'd just use water based (quick dry) clear satin varnish.

I'm with Mr H there.

First. Check the batch numbers. Second. Mix some paste at home saving you some time, instead of watching Fatima Whitbread. Set off early, saves time otherwise spent sat in traffic. Assuming the walls have already been sanded down and sized or lined...Set your boards up, Measure lengths...

I've had this on a house and I tried all sorts of primers and couldn't figure it out. The only thing that cured it (up to now at least) was to have cavity wall insulation.

You could have problems ajfinche, if you've splodged "testers" on your walls where they will be seen easily through your top coats - e.g. eye level or chimney breast. I'm sick of folk daubing these things all around the place and then you can't cover them up after properly and they can be...

Crown Solo. It is indeed, the ideal paint.

Don't take any notice of the above. :wink:

I suppose you could just use Dulux. That should do it. :!:

Allow all new surfaces to dry out completely. Wash down previously painted surfaces with a detergent solution to remove dirt, grease, chalking paint etc. where practicable. Rinse off with clean water and allow to dry. Carefully scrape back to a firm edge all areas of poorly adhering or...

If it was me. I'd paint it first.

Unless you told the painter that it was going to be a colour other than white, which you say he's applied, then the painter is not at fault as he's applied the paint supplied. In my opinion, this is a terrible, shoddy service you've had from the paint suppliers that even had the nerve to...

I wouldn't waste one second of my time in a DDC. Nor, would I part with any of my money in those places either. Beats me why pro's bother with the stuff as it seems to cause them more grief than anything else. Some folk never learn :evil:

The problem here is gloss on gloss when the previous coat had not cured properly. Sandtex is terrible for this and as John D enquired about which way the door is facing means that it's even less likely to cure before the second gloss because of lack of heat. This is one of those occassions...