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there are so many bodges out there where people have tried to do what you're wanting and they look terrible, you'll almost certainly have to move the pipes and change the valves to straight ones. If you're not able to do a decent DIY job, then get a pro in. also your flooring may have to be...

Op, dont get a washing machine tap it's a different thread and won't work here

mate, do this: turn off the water and open your cold tap & leave it open. unscrew the hose from the heating side and then turn on the filling loop and drain the excess water into that bowel you got there. put a hose on that drain point under the filling loop and open it up, let it run until you...

is your bathroom upstairs? if it is, then i would've thought that any leak under that floor would be visible on the ceiling below (which might be another way to look - take the ceiling down rather than the floor up)

you lot would be fuc*ed without Google (aimed at non pros)

its not a Hive, its a dual channel programmer it should be radio controlled and should set itself. the only thing you can do is take the batteries out for a while and hopefully it'll reset. failing that it'll have to be replaced

a big flat headed screwdriver usually does the trick

this is where your pump needs to be, if there's no room on that pipe you're going to have to re-configure the pipework to accommodate it

do you mean something horrible like a Boilermate?

it's no big deal from a 'fume' point of view. its just laziness. what he should've done was to take the bit of plasterboard he cut out when he made the new hole and used it to patch the old. now he has an awkward little repair to do.

you could end up like this guy..... i think every plumber has a story like this to tell (maybe not this bad though :eek:)

no it's not it's a tail

multiply KW by 3412 to get btus divide btus by 3412 to get KW

is the boiler losing pressure and you're having to top it up constantly? if not i doubt its the cylinder coil, you would also probably see water coming out of the overflow in the loft too. without hearing it it's difficult to diagnose.

take it apart again, make sure all the surfaces are nice and clean ten put a dollop of this around it...

what nonsense is this??:eek: EDIT: didn't see other replies to this before mine (annoys me when people slate other companies when they don't know the full facts)

dunno about all this velocity and sheet, but from a practical point of view those rads that are back to back upstairs, you could probably go under the wall there and save yourself lifting the carpet / floor, you never know it might save you some linear flow velocity...or something

not possible with this type of flue, the boiler is an Ideal Classic RS by the looks, its a decent boiler but a bit old so it might be worth getting a new one anyway. it appears to be quite low down too, perhaps its below the worktop or in a cupboard. also, it needs a terminal guard (y)

if the toilet supply is now on the mains (before it was low pressure tank fed) you'll need to change the seating washer in the ball valve, (or change the whole valve) you'll have this in there at the moment...