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in the back of his van along with the 2 port valve i bet

turn the big know clockwise that'll stop water in one pipe, then remove the brass cap next to it, underneath there'll be a screw and you then need to screw this down and that'll stop the water in the other pipe, but this will probably cause it to leak. undo the big nut next to the rad and...

because this is the only rad valve that is on the wrong way round?

because the thermostatic radiator valves are starting to shut down after that amount of time as the room is heating up (they work on air temp) when they start to shut down that's when they start to vibrate as the water is passing through the valve in the wrong direction. you'll need to swap the...

sounds like the thermostatic rad valves are on the wrong way, have a look at them and see if there's an arrow

where the hose connects to the pump there's a non return valve so no water can go back into the reservoir once it's in the hose. the water gets pumped upwards and then out to the drain (in this instance the OP has installed it) then whatever is left in the vertical section just settles down...

turn the rad-valves on their side so that the 'turny bit' is horizontal. bit of copper straight into a push fit bend buried in behind your plasterboard. all you'll see is copper coming out of the wall going into the rad valve. good luck,

next time snip the cable going to the valve and use a junction box or even a 5 pin connector so you wont have to go into the junction box at all

that's not an external pressure vessel, that's one for a worcester 350 if 'im not mistaken this is an external one with a 3/4 thread: http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/product/altecnic-expansion-vessel-12-ltr/

basics here, but if it works on HW you can discount components that work on both CH & HW like the boiler and pump, also the cylinder stat too. the programmer is switching on without issue and it's just when you turn the stat up? change the room stat, they're not expensive and you'll probably get...

or bung the outlet, that way you wont need to drain the tank (y)

does it blow when you're on HW too?

take a picture, it could be the drain point you're looking at if it's at the bottom. your isolation valve cold well be up in the loft on one of the outlets.

what a nice thread, guy comes on with a problem, another gives him good advice and he fixes it, then there's a thank you reply too!!! all it needs now is a crude joke..... oh wait...

option 1 is correct option 2 is known as a one pipe system

agreed, put a shallow square tray (cat litter tray is what i have) where that bit of pipe insulation is and change it, you shouldn't get much water,

I've not long back from seeing the latest Alien movie, and fire seemed to be a good way of flushing the xenomorph out, perhaps if you rigged up a couple of blow torches and started at the back of the car and worked your way foward, setting fire to the car as you go it could flush the critter out?

turn off the upstairs ones and see if the downstairs get hot, could be airlocked

no combi boiler will really do two showers simultaneously, although you stand more of a chance with a 42kw one. theres not going to be much difference in running either model really, one thing to know is that you will need a larger gas supply from your meter to your boiler (assuming you get the...