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do this then, and use 2 x 22mm straights, it's a better job

bit like this (except without the funky colours)

so you need to move the pipe forward and across about an inch? if you're not going to solder it, do it with compression fittings rather than push fit. fit the rad valve, drill a hole in the floor (mind those cables!) and drop a bit of 15mm down, that'll give you a better picture of what you...

no, you'll need to trace where those pipes go, and reconfigure the pipework to suit, it's more involved than just swapping the valve in this case. i'm not entirely sure on how those valves work, but i would think you can have the hot water on on its own, or maybe it's plumbed in that you have...

your system is already fully pumped (in a roundabout way) the pump is on the return in this case. what you have is a KOVM valve. i've not seen many at all, and the one's i have seen i've removed and replaced with motorised valves. which you would be best to do in this case i think. you might be...

you probably mean a tapstat one like this? if so, it could be stuck, they work the same as a normal TRV, so unscrew the head and see if the pin moves up and down, if not try to free it up with a pair of pliers, or give it a whack with something

this thread is awesome! i check back every few hours for an update, i applaud you GoodOne, this looks an absolute stinker of a job and you're doing well!

looks like that green gate valve shuts off your heating

can you put your heating on alone without the hot water coming on as well? that's a sure sign of a gravity system. how many pipes come off the boiler? 4 would suggest gravity. but as above, pictures would help.

if your tank(s) are asbestos they can be disconnected and left in situ, is your loft insulation that loose bead type stuff? you'll need to get it all tested to see exactly what it is. British Gas have procedures in place to deal with asbestos depending on what type it is. any suspect material...

what if you leave the extractor fan on for a while in a house with no chimney and have the doors and windows closed, would you suffocate to death after all the oxygen has been sucked out the house? or perhaps the house would implode

the manufactures instructions will tell all regarding ventilation. have a look to check if you're unsure. also in your first post you mentioned that you're in a modernish house, do you have a pre cast chimney? they can be bad for blocking easily, especially when fitted by a builder on a price

the first two pictures are the pump and three port valve, they're nothing to do with want you want to do, you'll need to take a seperate cold supply from the tank in the loft to one inlet side of the pump, and one from the cylinder (hot) to the other inlet. use a surrey flange for the cylinder...

made me lol, the DIY'ers choice, went to a job once where someone had tried to secure the squeaky floor boards upstairs with nails before his new carpets went in, created himself a nice internal water feature

if you take away your hot water cylinder you'll be left with only one method of getting hot water

not quite! o_O not to be disrespectful, but your lack of understanding suggests that you should get a pro in (y)

the end of the filling loop goes onto the cold main, the connection to the right of the gauge goes onto the cold feed, and theres another connection behind the gauge that is the pressure relief (goes to outside and is turned back to the wall) make sure the existing cold feed has a clear route...

yup! easily done really, you'll have every pipe there that you need, assuming you have an existing overflow that goes to outside you will be able to use the plastic pipe as a sleeve through the wall saving you the bother of drilling a new hole! but if you're unsure how to pipe it up you should...

seal the system? replace the F&E tank with an expansion vessel, the only extra pipe you'll need is a pressure relief to go to outside. you wont need to pressurise the system too much if you're worried about leaks, about 0.5 bar would be enough