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Thanks. I was fairly confident but always wise to check here. I could get away with wood screws but proper job is self tappers. Need 70mm to sure to allow for platerboard and skim before lintel. And of course drill a small hole and let the self drillers do their job

Its plasterboard and a very thin skim of masonary, no more than a couple of mm. Then the pre fabricated lintel.

So I have discovered I have metal lintels under the plasterboard in my window recess. I want to fit some roller blinds is it correct to drill through the fabricated, not solid steel, lintels with a small HSS drill and just use long self tapping screws to provide a decent hold for the blinds ...

I didn't take any pictures because ...I think.... I've solved the problem. The hpouse and garage were built in 1986 and as I said before poorly maintained. I had the shim the hinges, all cuts painted, to make the door fit the frame properly. or so I thought on first fitting. Something has...

I'll do that when I go back tomorrow or Friday John. The door frame itself is not perfectly square with a 5mm difference across the vertical from side to side so the door had to be tailored to fit the frame. Not unusual I'm sure but it did leave some widish gaps hence shimming the hinges. But...

About 6mm and it was still rail as far as I can remember. My son has checked and says the bottom of the door is still solid so nothing dropped in that respect. It is strange that its only the bottom that has "dropped" which did make me think of that or hinges are in soft wood but for them all to...

I did put an extra coat on the bottom of the door John and have rain strips across the top and the bottom so I would hope rain hasn't got in or any humidity. Its possible the hardwood cill was already "moist" so that may be flexing but being hardwood I hope not. Do you mean a link to the door on...

The frame has been repainted with exterior paint but I can't be sure what the frame was really like underneath. It looked OK but who can tell. The original door was rotten in quite a few places. The previous owner was a minimilist when it came to diy and when he did do any it was utter rubbish...

I hung a rear access door on my son's garage and it is a good quality door with a single pane of safety glass and plywood panel. It cut to size really well and looks a good solid construction. The door frame was a bit out of shape so I had to adjust the hinges with some shims but otherwise all...

My preferred solution Steve. But its not practical at the moment as it means taking door trim off and messing about with however it was run when first installed. But again, I'll have a poke around tomorrow and see in daylight.

That will be the case as the fitting is a largish rectangular shape so in that respect its OK but I will double check tomorrow to make sure and as you say the bends aren't too tight. Probably safer/neater to run a short 7 inches max chase through the two bricks and slip the cable and join into a...

I wondered about that. Is there no degree of width/allowance where such a (non straight) run would be allowed ? Basically its a half a brick width but vertical direction around two bricks. Otherwise I am left with chasing out a run on two bricks. Actually thats not too bad as the light fitting...

:) True, it would have to wend its merry way around a couple of bricks...vertically. Alternative run for a fresh cable is a bit complex and about 12 feet. Doable but messy and for the sake of a bit of soldering and heat shrink ........

In the joints between the bricks

I was thinking of a "proper" connector block as well but they are all fairly large. I think the heatshrink is the pragmatic way forward given that running a new cable would be almost impossible and cause massive destruction. However its the ideal solution of course and I will have another look...

I have a wall light outside, under cover and not affected by the weather. However I need to drop it a foot or so which means extending the existing 1.5 T&E cable thats buried in the joints. Is it acceptable to solder the cable cores and cover with shrink tube and plastic and bury in the joints...

Not sure Bernard. It's a reasonable assumption for something like that but its a house my sons just bought (I use "mine" as I've been working on the house for a few weeks now doing everything from decoration, flooring, replacing door hinges/latches/handles and lots of other stuff as he is being...

Exactly :LOL: For £8 I'll take my chances but I'm under no illusions that these are just recycled mcbs If I thought type B would fit I would replace all of them but not if rails and switch needs replacing as well

I did spot that and elsewhere. Saw a new 32amp for £98 on one website :eek:

Mine is displaying signs that it getting a bit "tired". Apart from tripping for no reason it also is very hard to reset again, even with the mains off. I also thought the realistic...logic .... would be to change the whole board but there are Type 1s on ebay and even Amazon...used "but...