Search results

The incoming cable will most likely be 2.5mm2. The flex poss. 1.5mm2. 1.5mm2 will be fine for a 1.5kw heater. The sizes are the square area of the conductors not measured diameter. If replacing flex best to use heat resisting type, sometimes called butyl.

Thats the neutral cable and yes the problem was overheating of the connection or contacts. Buy a new quality DP 20A switch, cut the cables back to good copper and re fit. Make sure your screws are tight!

Agreed, but I never mentioned that I changed the stat (van stock then) and later swapped that to the other heater. no difference and the Kwh readings were virtually the same. Maybe the air currents in the room? we will never know.

Many moons ago I attended a job where the customer complained that two identical heaters at each end of a large room produced different amounts of heat. Fully testing both and metering both over a week showed no appreciable difference. The customer was not convinced. Knowing her well she gave me...

Push the cycle button 5 times it will display the time in the meters memory. It will be GMT. Can only be reset by the meter operators infra red programmer. As has been said it’s near the end of its certified life.

All very true but that’s got nothing to do with using a single phase and neutral.

Hmm. No worse than under a shop bay window !!!

Nobody has mentioned that another very common problem with VOELCBs was that it could operate your neighbours trip if yours was faulty or non-existent. I had a callout every Sunday for ages when someone had their trip go at lunchtime. I visited all the local neighbours until I found an oven with...

Hmmm, VOLEB Doesn't flow of the tongue does it?

Can you explain what VOLEB stands for please. Curious.

The Ottermill is another name for a Chilton voltage operated elcb. Not an RCD. In fact it’s printed on front. See better pic attached. Also the earth entering at the bottom and exiting at the top tells us nothing as the electrode terminal and frame terminals are bus bared from top to bottom and...

"Chunky19 deserves credit for having worked it out before anyone else" Thank you JohnW2

Propah Charlie has probly nodded off by now!

Yes 180° Not to be confused with Two of Three Phase. Which visually from cut-out perspective looks the same. Use Voltmeter to confirm.

The camera is looking across the underside of the fuse holder at an angle to where the neutral is connected further back in the neutral link. The incoming RH cable (that looks from the centre of supply cable) is also connected at the back of the fuse. That style of fuse holder are quite deep.

JohnW2 is correct, L1-L1-L2-L2-L3-L3-N-N is normal. With Single Phase three wire being L1-L1-N-N-L2-L2.

The cables between the meter and your consumer unit are your property. The only problem is isolating them to safely do the job. Speak with your electrician and he can see it and advise.

No doubt in my mind, it's just the angle of photo. The Neutral link is on the left "set back" from the much more protruding fuse carrier. Possibly using the right hand terminal in fuse to exacerbate the position of the red cable.

Lights are not normally wired in a ring, just a straight radial. So there has to be an end one somewhere. Looks like you've found it!

I agree it can't be done, putting a intermediate in the conventional strappers will not work as long as the sw-L is at the opposite end to the line feed.