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Firstly make sure that the cold feed to the kitchen is actually from the main. If it is then you need to look at boosting the pressure. It may be something as straightforward as a valve not open properly but if all is okay with the cold main then you need to look at fitting a small booster...

Have a look for a fugi kit. Makes silicone sealant finishing a lot easier.

The length of the lug should be sufficient. I use bits of copper tube as spacers.

Some manufacturers offer a twin flue option which, being smaller pipes, may give the required fall back. Current legislation requires that access panels are sited to allow for a visual inspection of all flue joints so a system using longer flue pipes will be preferable.

I'd use long screws back into the brickwork and spacers if you're looking to put any weight on the shelves.

Warm air systems can be incredibly dangerous if not operating correctly and are not something that a DIYer should attempt any repairs on. Get a gas safe registered engineer in.

It depends on the type of prefab flue. Your best bet is to get a HETAS registered engineer in to advise you.

Hardly likely to stand up in court though as you have stated that you are competent with a screwdriver and appear to like stirring the sh*t. What's to say you hadn't been tampering yourself because you didn't like the chap that did the meter exchange.

Tin foil on the back of the cupboard and a layer of insulation inside it.

The condensation may not rot the oak beams but it will certainly cause damp staining to the ceilings, mould and the subsequent health risks from mould spores in the atmosphere.

I'd wait and see what happens when you get the main replaced first. If it's insufficient look at getting a booster set. Have a look at...

I personally think the logic + is a far better boiler than the i junior. As long as the system is properly flushed and the boiler is correctly installed there shouldn't be any problems with the warranty cover.

I have my doubts that a 230RSF would survive the move and I personally think it would be a false economy to try. If you're dead set on the conservatory in this position you are going to have to look at factoring in the cost of a new boiler in my opinion.

Most of the replies you've received on this thread have been from gas safe registered engineers.

So they have employed someone who has ripped half of the house apart looking for a gas leak that, in my opinion, would be highly unlikely to have been caused by you. If you had caused the leak there would have been damage evident to the wall surface. Ask to see the pictures of the damage to the...

So they have employed someone who has ripped half of the house apart looking for a gas leak that, in my opinion, would be highly unlikely to have been caused by you. If you had caused the leak there would have been damage evident to the wall surface. Ask to see the pictures of the damage to the...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251009055766?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

You can legally pump up to 12 l/min which is what the home boost will provide. I'm not convinced of the use of them to be honest.

If it upsets you that much complain to the ASA.

If the rads have holed it may be indicative of further problems within the system so it would be in your best interest to get a heating engineer in who can also comment on the state of the rest of the system.