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When you get the GSR in to carry out the work or certificate the existing installation he will be able to tell you.

No the thread can vary. Some can be a nut and reducing set into a 15mm valve. Get yourself a 10mm olive cutter if they are 10mm and change the nut.

The easiest way to do this is to select a combi that allows the use of pre heated water for the domestic side. You then feed there are commercially available valves that will divert the water from the cylinder through a combi once it drops below a certain point. The normal use for this is to use...

Valve is goosed.

The correct way would be to cut it all out and remake all the joints but that's not really practical in this case. I would clean it up and try to seal it with something like Adiseal http://adiseal.com/

If balancing hasn't worked it's time to start looking for pipework issues.

When you sign off a boiler install you are confirming the integrity of the appliance as well as gas tightness etc. That's why I won't sign off an appliance that I haven't personally fixed to the wall. I'm quite happy for a customer to carry out the work on the wet side up to the last connections...

You can get aerosols of inhibitor and Calmag make one in a squeezy bottle.

Could lead to all sorts of fun when someone tries to isolate one of the cylinders and it feeds from the vent on the other. Could also end up heating the upper cylinder from the bottom one by gravity.

You'll need to cut off the waste from below. You can do this using a multitool or heat a screwdriver/chisel and melt through the waste.

You have a leak.

Sounds like it may be a balancing issue but you need to open all the TRvs fully and balance using the lockshield end.

Depends on what's been quoted for but if removing the pipework means lifting loads of carpets or laminate it can be. It's also very dependent on the pipework layout.

If the customer has a garden I'll always ask if they want the old storage cistern to use as a water butt. If they don't my local allotment takes them.

If the customer wants to keep the scrap they pay for waste disposal or get rid of the rubbish themselves. The scrap pays for the cost of waste disposal. My quotes always specify to remove and clear away all redundant equipment and I specify anything that is to be left on site like old galvy...

That's a completely different scenario. With a manifold you'll have 22 up to the manifold.

Have a look at http://arrowvalves.co.uk/water-regulations/ and have a read of tutorial 9. The water regs allow for a wider variety of valves now.

The latest surestop is WRAS approved to be used as the main stoptap because it can also be shut off on the tap itself.

I would imagine the boiler is already fitted as this thread is from October last year.

If you don't contain the chippings they will migrate away through the soil.