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Mira 88 doesn't have a cartridge. Have a look at http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-88-post-1984-shower-spares. It's a manual mixer so may not achieve stable temperatures on a combi boiler if other outlets are opened.

Expansion doesn't take place in the pipework, the pipework doesn't stretch. Expansion takes place in the expansion vessel or air bubble. No problem fitting isolating valves on the outlet of an unvented cylinder. The only place you shouldn't fit valves is between the cylinder and the expansion...

I can run the hot tap in the kitchen and run the shower at the same time on a 40Cdi. Flow rate is around 16 l/min but I have a good incoming cold water flow rate and have got flow restrictors fitted to all outlets. Without the flow restrictors it's entirely possible that one outlet will starve...

So if you can't access the pump to bleed it how do you access it to change it when it burns out? In my 32 years in the industry I've never had to add washing up liquid to a system.

A useful tip from me is don't come onto a site asking for advice and then alienate all the professionals by insinuating that they are over charging. Just give it a go, what's the worst that can happen? It'll only cost you a few thousand to replace your boiler if you destroy it.

After replacing two EP2002s that developed faults within a couple of weeks I swapped to a different make. Means changing the back plate but no problems since.

An ex Aqualisa rep told me to fit a ballofix valve to the cold feed and restrict the flow with it when i enquired about replacing the cartridge in an Aqualisa shower for the combi one. Apparently the only difference is a flow restrictor in the cold.

More likely to be an issue with the controls than the boiler. I would suspect a sticking microswitch in one of the zone valves.

It could be pumping over or drawing air down the open vent. If it's got worse since the new pump went in it's possible because the new pump has been set at a higher speed.

How are you testing the pressure? Could be a faulty gauge 15 bar is one hell of a pressure in a domestic plumbing system. I'd be suspecting a failed mini expansion vessel if one is fitted.

You can get fixed rad extension pieces from 20mm up to 50mm. I think Armo74 is thinking about the extending ones, I've never had problems with the fixed length ones.

It's definitely one that needs reporting to gas safe. You do need to be registered to work on LPG. From your description I would classify the installation as At Risk and shut it off. I would advise her to shut the gas off at the bottle and report the installer to gas safe ASAP. This guy needs...

It's a non return valve, presumably to prevent reverse or gravity circulation.

I'd drop it lower than 1 bar as it will be easier to see any rise. Just shut off under the boiler. If you turn the boiler back on the expansion of the water as it's heated will make it difficult to tell if there is a problem.

Drop the pressure, turn off boiler, isolate the cold and see if the pressure still rises. If it doesn't turn the iso valve back on and see if it goes up. If it does it's probably the secondary HEX

It also tends to yellow with the heat. Best way is an aerosol of radiator enamel and mask up around it well.

Expansion inside the tap is it warms up.

It's always good to minimise the route that the water takes to save wasting water and delays in getting the hot water to the outlet. After a hot water draw off the water will sit in the pipe and cool down. Next time an outlet is opened you draw off this cold water before the hot comes through so...

I'm thinking a flat brass bar with a hole drilled either end. One end on the arm of the valve with a nut holding it in place, other end with a bolt through attaching the float to it. Solder or braize the top end to stop it pivoting and you've probably achieved it for about £20.

Be wary of using products that haven't been tested as you may be held liable for any injury. Have a look at http://www.coverad.co.uk/