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Have a look at http://www.polytank.co.uk/polyA30.htm . This will convert a normal polytank to give you the required air gap. For float valve look at...

Replace the front cover to the boiler, turn it off and do not use it until it has been checked by a gas safe registered engineer.

You can't use a standard float operated valve with a DC valve on a rainwater harvesting set up. The water regulations require a type AA air gap as the only method to prevent contamination of the water main as rainwater is classed as a fluid category 5 risk. A type AA air gap is an air gap with...

This is a UK site so may not be relevant but some of the external stop taps over here are quarter turn but will keep turning so it's possible that you've not turned it on properly.

Not all copper push fit fittings are demountable. I've used a dremmel type tool with a cutting disc in the past to remove them but you need to be careful not to score the pipe as this can cause leaks with the new fitting.

I could heat a 3500 sq ft house with a 12kw boiler if the house were well enough insulated. Choice of system will also be dependent on the layout of the property. If all outlets are close together a single cylinder will be the way to go. If they are spread around you will want to look at...

Not a bad boiler but think about going for the 30 if you use the bath regularly. Hot water flow rate from any 24Kw combi is not great.

Bread knife

If everything else is turned off and the flow and return are both hot at the boiler but the radiator is still cold then the water is finding another route. Possibly an incorrectly adjusted bypass or a link where there shouldn't be one. I replaced a radiator for a customer recently and the new...

Disconnect the radiator until BC sign it off and then re-install it. If it's for a while chuck a cheap fan heater in there.

Put a small upstand on the unit.

You need to set to with a multimeter and trace the faulty component. If you look at a Y plan diagram you can trace which wires should be live.

The OP says that the flue is K vent.

If it's an extension chances are the two rads have just been tacked on the end of the system with no thought for design. It's a common theme when radiators have been added in an extension.

Smallest combi you will get is 24Kw. You're looking at a system boiler and a small unvented cylinder if you want to use gas. Chat to your gas installer, he's in the best position to advise you.

Sounds like the 15mm gate valve is being used as a bypass. I wouldn't fiddle with it as your boiler doesn't normally need a bypass. As others have said the coil in your cylinder doesn't transfer the heat into the water as quickly as a modern one which is why the boiler is behaving like this.

I'd say bad luck on the part of the blind fitter to have come across such poor construction. I certainly wouldn't expect to come across a bit of DPM that close to the plasterboard. I'd seal the holes with a good quality waterproof sealant like Adiseal and take it as a warning not to drill into...

I'm not sure where you're proposing the condense pup is fitted as it needs to be below the boiler.

Have a look at http://www.ukcopperboard.co.uk/literature/pdfs/Installation-Tips/Pipework-in-suspended-flooring.pdf for details of how to run pipework in floors. Use 15mm for the hot and cold on a combi using 22mm will lead to longer waits for hot water at the outlets.

Could be expansion/contraction of the pipes in the wall. If it was leaking it would do it all the time, not just when you run the taps.