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I'd say that they are actually worse than saniflos. At least a saniflo is chucking stuff down the drains that is meant to go down there. These waste disposal things are chucking stuff that should be composted or binned down the drains, clogging them up and causing hassle at the treatment works...

What do you mean by a combi unit? Combination boiler? Combination cylinder? This sort of problem generally happens when the cold is on the main and the hot tank fed.

If only the rads were removed and flushed out you may still have a load of muck in the pipes. Just cleaning it out of the rads won't help the circulation round the system. I'd say it's worth flushing the whole system and not just the individual rads.

The pre heat facility can be disabled on the Linea Max by moving a jumper on the PCB. I'd be wary about putting a time switch on the main feed to the boiler as if it regularly turns off when the boiler is heating the excess heat is not dissipated and it can distort the heat exchanger.

I'd suggest you go elsewhere and ask. You've already put the backs up of the trained professionals here who may have been willing to help. Coming onto a forum and requesting advice from professionals by insulting the entire profession is hardly the correct way of going about things. God help...

None of them. use a boiler that isn't full of plastic. Go for Atag or Intergas.

A zone valve in place of each shut off valve and a room stat or programmable room stat in each room. You may need to fit a bypass and the valves should be linked back to the boiler.

Before you even look at the saw you need to look at getting, boots (£150), trousers (£120), forestry helmet (£50) and gloves.(£17). Then as well as the saw you'll need the kit for sharpening the saw (do you know how to sharpen a chainsaw?) as a blunt saw is more likely to snatch. You also...

You're best off asking your installer as it depends on the existing pipe configuration.

I wouldn't pressurise a system with pipes in the concrete floor. I've seen too many that have failed when they are pressurised.

On the subject of sealing the system, I will not do this if there are pipes laid in solid floors, too much chance of a leak.

If the house is warm enough it's likely that the boiler is large enough. The boiler in your old property could well have been over sized. I agree with the above comments don't waste money on a new boiler if the only issue with yours is the fan. I don't think there's enough payback in swapping a...

You mean cold inlet but I agree it should be removed as there shouldn't be any valves between the valve set and the cylinder.

It's quite often not practical to remove the old cold water cistern at the same time as fitting the new one due to the build up of sludge and slime in the bottom. You either spend a couple of hours cleaning and drying it before cutting it up or let it dry naturally and come back to remove it at...

Is it the only toilet? What happens if there's a power cut? Get rid and put a proper connection in.

2.5 bar is too high but it sounds like your expansion vessel has lost it's charge pressure or failed. Judging by your description you know nothing about boilers so I'd get a professional in to look at it.

Best solution would be to rip all the pipe out and start again. Failing that I wouldn't pressurise old stainless.

Tell your plumber to have a read of the water regs, if he can read them past the rim of his stetson. There is also a good chance of the mains water blowing the power shower off the wall if the PRV fails. have a look at Trevi Boost showers.

I would imagine a suitably qualified heating engineer would be a good idea. Or you could keep throwing parts at it.

Top up the system, turn the boiler off and isolate it from the heating pipes (two little valves under the boiler). If the pressure gauge drops the leak is on the boiler. If the pressure doesn't drop open the isolating valves. If the pressure now drops the leak is on the system. If the pressure...