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As non plumber, I'm not sure what a cc/ccc's is? :?

Before you go spending £300+ on an ESP neg head pump you need to get a plumber in to check the system. Installing shower pumps is a hard job for a diy'er and they rarely get it right.

When you slacken the brass nut off does the copper inlet pipe spring back and do you have to force it back up to the plastic tail in order to tighten it up? Also when you sit on the toilet is it loose? Does the inlet connection move when you sit down? Edit: Yes what Seco said.

No wonder it leaks, its cross threaded to hell! :shock: The plastic thread on that bottom entry will be damaged now, get a new fibre washer and a Fluidmaster pro fill valve with a brass tail and redo it...

Don't buy Horstmann, they are unreliable junk, stick to Danfoss, Drayton or Honeywell.

Polytanks are excellent. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/10500/Plumbing/Cold-Water-Loft-Tanks/Cold-Water-Tank-25gal-690-x-515-x-520mm

I'm sure I could get a 15mm fitting on there but the endfeed 15mm x 1/2 inch convertors I bought clearly have the smaller end as the 1/2 but why do so many people say 1/2 has the bigger OD? I'm confused?? :roll: :?

This is a question that has had a lot of debate on here with lots of different answers. I need to connect to 1/2 inch pipe at home to add a new radiator. I know imperial pipe was measured on the inside and metric is measured on the outside. Is 1/2 inch pipe bigger or smaller on the outside...

Yes that is the correct way the rubber washer goes on the pipe. Use a pair of waterpump pliers on the nut but don't overtighten it. You shouldn't need to use slicone on these joints. I don't really know what else to say.

Caustic soda and a few kettlefulls of boiling water should disolve it.

Do you have any microbore pipework in your system? (thin heating pipe of say 8mm?) this can cause stubborn airlock. What I would do in your situation is this. 1. Turn both rad valve off 2. Remove rad 3. Open both valves into container until it flows free. What system have you got...

If both valves are open and the rad is bled then its probably an airlock, crack open the union on the return and into a tray or wet vac to restore flow. Even easier if a drain off valve is fitted. 8)

Sorry to hear of your misfortune, I would advise caution with a lot of these discount tool sites, people often pay for powertools and don't receive them. Stick to the well know names and your money will be safe. Find a good deal from a supplier and google it for bad reviews, also try blagger.com.

Problem one, missing rubber washer. Problem two poor quality trap. You could make your own PTFE washer but the trap must offer up to the waste nicely with no forcing.

Hi there, is your flush cone of this clear plastic type? http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=SOLRVCXIDBN2ICSTHZOCFFY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=flushcone If so replace it with the rubber type from a plumbers merchant, it will provide a better seal. Or is yours the external...

:lol: The guy who fitted it was obviously not dealing with a full deck.

I'm thinking of swaping the bath in our ensuite for a shower, the bath is a very slow drainer due to cowboy installation. I want the new shower to have a nice fall on the waste pipe, and I also want it under the floor. 1. My wife does not want any boxed in pipes :evil: 2. The basin will be...

Another thing to be aware of with converting from open vent to sealed system is that the higher pressure could cause weak joints to fail in the system, joints which are 'dodgy' but are just about water tight under low pressure. I'm talking from experience. :oops:

Obviously an April fool wind up a day too early!!!

I bet the check valve is mounted horizontally am I right? you will find that the noise stops if you can mount if vertically.