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LAUGHED TILL I WAS SICK!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

We had a plumber out a while back when I screwed through a hidden pipe, all he did was solder a bit of copper over the hole. Still holding to this day!! :)

Our cast iron soil branch is leaking, on closer inspection it seems the putty in the joint has crumbeld out. Is this just regular glazing putty they used to use? How do the pro's mend these leaking joints?

What does your plumber say about this? I take it he did the decent thing and explained the problem before he left?

Thanks for the reply, the old washer and jumper were kind of stuck in the tap body when I removed the top part, the new washer is a good fit on the jumper and plenty big enough the cover the seat. As a non plumber I don't understand why the jumper has to move, why cant it just be solid? I'm...

Our cold bathroom tap (mains fed) has started vibrating loudly when turned off. The taps are the tall Edwardian type, I took the tap apart and put a new washer on and the problem persists. My question is should the jumper be loose in the tap body or should it be a tight fit that can't be...

You know your manifolds Kev. :)

"I guess I need to take the cistern off again (or at least undo the fixings and lift it up) so that I can get to the washer?" Hey hold your hourses a second, if the inlet pipe is has zero up/down movement then you may need to lift the ballvalve (undo nut, drain cistern etc) but there's no...

Ah! :lol: Hadn't noticed it was one of those long threads that gets ressurected! Good tips though, and where else but a plumbing forum can you get the council of 10 - 15 experienced plumbers (on this thread) to learn from all at once. Who is it that calls this site Diydoughnuts again...

It sounds like you've tried to re use the old fibre washer, fit a new one (some plumbers like to wet the washer first under a tap for a second or two). The pipe to the ballvalve inlet has to be straight otherwise the washer wont make 100% contact with the plastic thread and leak. These washer...

Have you tried bleeding the pump?

I'm glad it fits 'bog frog' have you used the toilet yet? I presume it hasn't blocked? (not saying it should). :)

I wouldn't do it myself and certainly not on a bath but if its mains fed with a decent pressure then surely it will be okay for an 8ft length on a basin? The basin in our old house had 15mm supplies and 1/4 turn taps and I had to turn the isolation valves right down to stop water going...

It wont do any harm to reduce down to 10mm hot & cold to supply a basin provided it is from a combi boiler.

You say you want to change a rad valve on a combi system? What make of boiler is it? The valves can leak when operated, I think closing the auto air vent on top of the boiler has the same effect but a plumber will need to confirm this.

Hi, 760x760 is the smallest off the shelf size but there are companies who will mould you one of any size. Check these guys out. http://www.classic-marble.com/shower_trays.php

Im still confused, what do you mean by ceramic fitting? Are you refering to a ceramic disc tap, or taps with a ceramic head/handle??

It may be easier to buy a tap reveiver set like the ones is kevs pictures, they allow the spouts to stay in place and the headgears and handles to be renewed. :) http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=KQAQJPUGP4Z0ACSTHZOCFFI?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=Tap+revievers

I take it you know how fussy shower pumps can be regarding their piping, and if you don't follow the manufacurers instructions to the T then you can expect problems. Is the pump higher or lower than the base of the cylinder? http://www.salamanderpumps.co.uk/Download/instructions.pdf

Have you actually tried the 20mm offsett connector? There's always a little 'give' in them. Also if you have room you could chop the cast iron back a bit and put a soil extension piece in to allow a little more give.