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I didn't buy this one so dont know how I can check the specification. What type of kitchen tap that is generally suitable for gravity fed supply?

It's open vented. Its one of those typical pull out, single lever kitchen. Are they generally not for tank feed?

Hope someone can shed me a bit more light on how to use these air vent correctly, also comment on my "combined feed and vent" system ..

Hi everyone, We've just moved in to a property and the kitchen mixer tap has very poor hot water flow (from HW cylinder), while the cold water (from main) is fine, and they can't seem to mix at all. I understand the main cold water has higher pressure, but even when I move the tap to hot only...

Just to sum this thread up, I understand it's not necessary to change to a lower-rated MCB for my oven, and the MCB for the most part not interchangeable. The reason for no need to change MCB is MCB is mainly there to protect the cable, as long as the cable is suitably rated, that should be...

Yes, there is no vent pipe. I did a bit of research and it seems to be the "combine feed and vent" type of system. The pipes are 22mm and the boiler is MAIN boiler. Is it very concerning? What should I watch out for?

@CBW Currently both are closed. I did try to open the automatic one, heard a lot of hissing then closed it. But then my radiators went cold and I had to bleed them for ages. Should I leave the automatic valve permanently open?

Thanks Chris! How do I use them? I did think they are similar to bleed valves. I just messed around with the automatic one and somehow lots of air get into the system and took me ages to bleed all the radiators. Luckily all works now.

I got this cast iron radiator locally, and the lady said they used to work well but didn't know too much about them. I really like the look of them and want to replace all my steel panel radiators. However are they too much trouble to use nowadays? For this particular one, I can see some...

Hi everyone, There are some section of pipes on my heating system that have these valves. My heating system is conventional boiler with small central heating tank, cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. Curiously, there is no vent that goes back to the tanks. So is this like a feed and...

@Honj: I figured it out! There's actually no problem with the pump or the float switch. It turns out, inside the condensate container, there is another magnetic float that rises and falls with the water level, and there is a sensor/switch behind it. However there are two slots on either side of...

I understand. Is there a list for the name of the parts for each sensor/component tests can you can copy/paste for me? I want to look through it. If there's any specific test I want to look in further I'll ask you.

@Honj: Would you be able to share the service manual with me? I want to check a couple of things that might not lead to anywhere and dont want to waste your time. I would share my findings! Thank you

@JohnD Ah thank you. I've learnt alot today. Sorry I understand it can be frustrating explaining completely beginner stuff. This is a house we've just moved in. It used to have an electric hob and electric oven on a 32A circuit, but the seller just replaced it with a gas hob, and took away the...

I might have used the wrong term, what do you call the switch for the oven ? Connection unit, or fused spur? Sorry, total DIY beginner, but keen technical enthusiast otherwise.

@SUNRAY @EFLImpudence The fuse is the mini plug-in type, so I imagine it's relatively simple to replace. However with appliance circuit, do I apply the diversity calculation (so 10A + 30% of 6A +5A for socket, so total of 17A, and needing a 20A MCB), or just go with maximum rating 16A? Another...

@JohnD: Thank you. Could you elaborate? I'm looking to learn, not just finding solution. Isn't leaving the fuse at 32A allow some small surge that could be still dangerous?

Hi everyone, We have an appliance circuit for cooker and oven, this is connected directly to the consumer unit with a 32A MCB. However the cooker has been replaced with a gas cooker, and I have got a new 3.8kW oven. I wonder if I should change the fuse to a lower rating to better protect the...

Thank you @Honj . This is so helpful. You are right, either the float or the reed switch (which is attached to the side of the pump) is the likely candidate. I just need to figure out how to get inside the pump. However, even after I manually activate the pump (M8 test), the error message...

@Honj Thank you! Really brilliant guide. I have been able to test the pump. It works! So it's strange why it's not activated during the process. And for the drain valve, where is it located? I can hear a ticking sound, but can't see anything actually moving. (The air valve jj4091 mentioned...