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Who replaced the pcb? Was it replaced with a brand new one from a parts suppliers? Was the position of the jumpers checked or did they just copy the position on the old pcb?

yep still got it

ya right if the receiver is shot it wont override but where does the op state that the the receiver is getting a signal and the green light is on? if the stat is at fault you can override at the receiver. imo if the batterys been out and he has more than 1 wireless control i think pairing the 2...

to pair the stat and the receiver -Turn the power off at the spur and remove batteries from the stat. -Switch power back on, then press and hold both buttons on the receiver, should flash red then stay illuminated. -Let go and put the batteries back in the stat and turn the stat up and down...

to override there is a button on the receiver, this can be used to the prob is fixed. have you tried pairing the stat and the receiver? i would try this first but if they do need replacing its only a 5min job (swapping like for like)...

have you had it serviced in the last few years? they need a modified burner door seal fitting. if you haven't this could be causing the boiler to go to overheat also sounds like it needs a new disconnecter, they are crap but tbf most of the boiler is :roll:

:lol:

tbh if ya asking this ya should get someone in to sort it. but if ya want to have a go... permanent mains supply to ya l on st1 pump needs to be wired to the boiler on st2 (Lp being the live) the orange from the wiring centre needs to be wired to Lr (also on st2)

fix price repairs only cover 1 fault (unless related) so id charge for both! :twisted: £199 for gas valve then £79 for the pcb

if it sounds like a fog horn check the trap/condensate isn't blocked, the sediment from the heat exchanger drys rock hard so ya might need to replace the trap

even agile is catching on :lol:

you should have a bit of resistance on the lever, isolate the power remove the head and check the spindle and the head isn't stuck

isolate the power to the entire central heating system and check the valve again

:lol: might try that the comment about 2 screws securing the head would also give the op a clue :wink:

if you turn the power off to ya central heating at the fuse spur does the newer valve (the 1 with no resistance on the lever) spring back?

yes, if it has a dimple on the silver cover it can be removed without getting wet. they will be 2screws securing the head to the valve body, isolate the mains if you do attempt to check this. honeywell valves rarely become stiff tho. i would check the orange wires from the valves to see if...

not quite http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/homeowner/customer-service/faqs/general-boiler-questions/why-is-the-hot-water-produced-by-my-combi-boiler-sometimes-cloudy

norm its just air bubbles in the water, it will settle down with use

at a guess id say its the sunvic motorised valve (the white 1) is at fault, either the microswitch stuck on or the valve spindle stiff. try removing the head and checking that the spindle is free, if it is isolate the power and remove the orange wire make safe and test op

i am sure the op is over the moon to finally see your response 4 year's on :lol: