Search results

Never ever use fibreglass/rockwool type insulation between rafter, besides it breaches regs. External roof coverings can heat up to 70 80 degrees in summer and without good foilbacked triple R or Kingspan Extra therm the interior will be like an oven, in winter then freezing. Worse still are the...

Very rarely do you get cracks on D&D and quite frankly staggered joints may be the "correct" method but I do not have the time or inclination to bugger about with alternating the cut....I Dot and dabbed my own house that I built almost single handedly two years ago, and not a smidge of a crack...

Hey its only early doors yet, this is only the first page. Glad to hear your project was a success :D . You have to appreciate that J.B is a limited performer, a reserve team player for Darlington in the spread stakes, so dot and dab would be something he could do all day long with relative...

If I recall the catnics are not completely smooth faced so you will have something of a key, not that you will really need it, dry line will adhere to almost anything, if it will stick to ceramic tiles a catnic will not be a bother.

Tried to access the render screed estimator at the top of the page without success. What I am looking for is to be able to compare quantities for coverage of area ...say 10sq mtr for the materials required between dot and dab and sand cement render at 12mmm. I am trying to promote the use of...

Not uncommon, many ceilings over here are 8ft minimum from finished floor level and often more.

Cut all your boards first. Have them all in place against the wall and marked with an offcut of board at all edges. Then you know exactly where each board starts and finishes. Just use the edge of your trowell(right hand side) to put a smidge on the wall then with the other side of the trowell...

http://www.british-gypsum.com/PDF/SBb10(Basic_TL_SI).pdf Check this out!

Hi Shaznmark...sorry for the delay I should indeed have had a heart seizure this week as I have been doing some late nights, so no time for the forum. Rough casting: a 3:1 sand cement mix or not a weaker mix than 2:1:9 cement lime sand, if using lime, use a well graded, clean plastering sand...

Have it your way cus you "knows it all" Pwahhhhhhhhhh haaaaaa haaaaaa haaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!

Do try not to be so selective when quoteing me J.B., the full post above is self explanatory.

I thought we were talking external rendering here???

Yep....Its generally a p**s wet slurry of 1:1 sand cement dashed onto the wall to act as a key...if you can get the scud ( or spattter coat) to cover the best part of the surface area with waterproofer or the product mentioned it will help enormously with the high suction.

Yes J.B. I did indeed but I was generalising in view of the points made about the deviation of the door casing, and overall where no specific specification was required to meet any exacting standard.

What Masona describes is a dry dash, Shaz n Mark what you describe is a wet dash or Harling...or actually a combination of both, can you clarify what finish you are hoping to achieve???

And I stated Allways were used for dabbing and not................ allways were THE ONLY SIZE used for dabbing.

Ok I will clarify. The 9.5 was, and from what I can gather still very much is the bog standard most used size of plasterboard in dot and dabbing run of the mill brick and block built semi detached new built properties. Of course and I restate other sized boards can and are used in conjunction...

my mate who I work with who had been working the type of sites I have been talking about untill only recently...Cheap thrown together housing estates... told me they still use 9.5 boards on all dabbing just as they did ten years ago and just as they will ten years from now. nothing has changed...

I.M.O. that is a drastic and non necessary course of action. 90% preperation means 10% persperation. :D

Firstly you will need to build your wall on a concrete footing...unless your "floor" is a concrete raft.