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this doesn't sound like a diy job to me, depending on the size of the rubble it will either be a b****** or a f****** b****** to prop then you'll need to install at least two quite big steel beams which will need to be supported on concrete pads, i advise you cast-in-situ because of the rubble...

if your new conservatory is blocking your existing air bricks yes, just install new ones to match the existing, as long as there is a flow of air under your floor you're fine.

maybe just me but i prefer laying concrete block, thermailte absorb too much moisture from the the mortar

I'm laying some laminate in my house soon, are all flooring pull bars the same are of some better than others? ps i'm a bit of a tool snob

You're about right there.There is an exact science to this but it's exactly that, science and I'm a bricky. Your exact volume has so many variables it's hard to nail perfectly, amount of water used, how well the concrete is vibrated etc.

Never done a job of this type but I would build a stud with osb, put breather paper on the cavity side of the osb, fill the stud with insulation(kingspan type) then sheet with vcl plasterboard. As for the floor you could insulate then screed timber floor works too though. Ps stick another dpm...

how much does the floor need to be raised by

maybe this is english regs being different from scotland again but here we construct ours with foam http://buildingsuppliesdirect.co.uk/product/Groundwork-Materials-Expansion-Joint-Filler/2299 in the joint then tie with expansion ties...

yes mate

If your butt is tied in it shouldn't be too bad but I would make a quick shutter(jam a bit timber in the cavity) and fill with concrete

i would imagine that you are going to get some condensation if you create a cavity using the gypliner and insulated pboard, i would stick in breather/weeper vents top and bottom of the wall to let air circulate in your cavity. Never seen or used the gypliner before, seems a good system though.

was that when you were waiting for the order of long stands coming in?

no mate, i don't get my info from diy books. i was talking about reading the advice that people were giving you properly "Hangers are used to avoid the necessity to build in joists. In a suspended ground floor, hangers have the advantage of reducing potential rot to joist ends built into...

woody's right, if bricks are loose at all these need to be taken down, old mortar cleaned off and rebuilt (this is a potential can of worms) if it's sturdy enough, rake out the loose stuff with the mortar pick and render, this will give a good "key" for the render

don't download the book, you won't bother to read that properly either.

You can download the chudley book for free. To answer your question there's a few ways to do it; Build the joists in, this is quite old fashioned and I would wrap them in dpc or tar dip them as they enter the cavity (unlikely to get through modern insulation but why take the chance?) Use...

The only thing I would do is prop the lintel that's supported by the gallows bracket, since these are resting on the smaller lintel. Purely aesthetically but a concrete lintel will look s*** next to that nice old brickwork. For the sake of being a smart **** that's monk bond by the looks of things

p.s. you'll need to put in an impressive shoring or remove lots of soil before you consider excavating for founds.

in my opinion that is as big a job as a retaining wall gets, you need to install a drainage system, get an engineer to design something, fyi i'm doing a little retaing wall (1m high) in a few weeks time and the first 140mm of that is 18" thick

when you say the corners are "level" i take it you mean plumb (vertical) if this is the case, i think you mean it is bowed in the middle, when you say a long spirit level what length are you talking about? 1 inch on an eight foot level isn't ideal but not something you would notice from the...