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Rout out the recess for the plate part. Mark and drill the recess for the body of the closer. Clean-out with a chisel and mallet. Remember to pull the chain out and secure it with a pin/clamp when fitting the door - and take the pin out before trying to close the door..... :oops: Scrit

They are what the are - poor quality Far East stuff Scrit

I have seen bathrooms with glazed doors and in particular storey windows where the door frame extends upwards and has a light (glazed panel) above the door. In fact one of the flats we lived in when I was young had just such an arrangement. It's not an uncommon approach in older apartment...

I feel the problem is that there is a skills gap to overcome and I'm not so sure that an inexperienced woodworker who's never built a frame structure would be able to accomplish this without some disappointment in terms of fit and finish and that's what I was trying to avoid. We both know that a...

It was just that solid oak then filler seems a bit of a wasted effort. I take your point about the standard of work by some people, though. Scrit

But isn't that what the cowboys use? :?

Actually Ziggy that's completely the wrong way of going about it. The frame below the table top is traditionally made-up from flat members and the drawers are built into a sort of box structure, a bit like this: OK, so in a traditional table these elements would be smaller and you'd have...

Don't f*nny about cobbling up the job! Pull-out the casings and reset them square or replace them, that way you should be able to rehang at least two in a day! :shock: :wink: Scrit

Try Screwfix

Frass...... which is the white powder pushed out by the beetle as it emerges. If you've got what appears to be fresh frass around or beneath the timbers (on the top of the old ceiling) then you've got acrtive infestation. Problem is it's not always easy to tell if there;'s frass there in an...

I'd go for the rear mounting option - my alcoves (Victorian house) are anything but square and scribing a 40 to 50mm thick shelf round 3 sides sounds like a royal PIA. And what if the alcove is wider at the back than the front? :roll: Scrit

By "intricate bits" do you mean the architraves (the mouldings around the door casings)? If so, yes, they can be dipped. They are normally only nailed in place (into the edges of the casing) and they are generally quote easy to remove - just watch out for panel pins nailed through the corners of...

That 24mm is the minimum thickness. Jason's items look like the Hafele units and from memory they require a 10mm diameter hole about 100mm deep and are more than adequate for 50mm thick shelves (used them for that myself). Jason's done quite a few of these shelves so I reckon his advice is good...

Is this possibly why manufacturers put an M14 thread on them - because it's not compatible with chucks? I'm with BA - I have an angle drill and it's maximum speed is 1300 rpm and even at that it's pretty grabby, so a machine with a starting speed of 900 rpm is starting a bit fast IMHO. I'm also...

Stripped means that any older finish has been removed by using a stripper such as Nitromors. Dipped is where a similar process is done commercially by dipping the entire piece in a tank of caustic soda (not good for the joints that one). Either way all traces of finish are removed - completely -...

What state is the item in? Has it just been dipped or stripped and/or has it been cleaned? Scrit

Yes, but as modern veneered boards are extremely thin with the veneer layers between 0.4 and 0.8mm thick you'll need to be careful. Aluminium oxide paper at P120 or P150 grit should give a reasonable finish for further finishing. Be sure to use a sanding block to back the paper. If you are...

As gcol says for bricks you'll need the hard material set, but they still struggle with engineers blue brick (doesn't everything?). The standard tool is OK and certainly work well in blockwork, soft stone and soft brick, main thing to remember is to let the machine do the work - go at it like an...

Hi Ziggy What sort of console table are you building? By that I mean will it have individual legs, like this one: or are you using solid end panels to form the uprights? Console tables come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and structures so it's impossible from what you've given to figure...

A cordless 14.4v will do it - I use 12v stuff for that sort of work, the only bummer is having to recharge your batteries all the time, so a 3-battery solution may be called for if you are doing a hundred a day..... The main problem isn't the drill, it's actually getting sufficient clearance to...