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There's quite a difference between drilling wood and mixing plaster or cement. I know some plasterers buy special low-geared mixers to handle the strain. If a 2kg SDS isn't man enough then why not go to a 3kg - problem is, as you are doubtless aware, the bigger you go the heavier the task...

Buy a Bosch GST135BCE: Scrit

:roll:

Oh, and when there's no power I resort to 1930s 2-jaw ratchet brace (12in sweep) - OK for a few holes buit I wouldn't fancy doing 600 holes that way.....

For such a small piece you could also get away with using contact adhesive such as Bostik or Evostick. Apply to both surfaces, allow to go off (dry) for 10 minutes then position and roll down from one end to the other. Just make sure your veneer is a bit bigger than the substrate and that you...

I'm not sure I understand why an adjustable feet unit couldn't be made to look like a unit on a fixed plinth. At the end of the day if you really want to you could always make a plinth box out of MFC and remove the feet from an off the shelf unit before plonking it on top of the plinth...

40mm is a seriously large hole. I've been using Sandvik/Bahco power auger bits for years and they are pretty goo and will also work in a hand brace which can be pretty handy, but they no longer seem to go above 32mm. A similar design bit is made by Marples (Irwin), but again the maximum size...

The only to get an Ulmia these days seems to be to order it from Germany, but they aren't cheap! They're also not as versatile as the Nobex. Scrit

From what you wrote I assumed that you now had a floor to ceiling opening as the casings went floor to ceiling (and presumably had plasterboard nailed to them). Either way I assumed that there was a gap which you'll need to board out and to do that you'll need to insert a noggin above the casing...

I'd stud across the opening first and fix with three fixings/screws either side. If you put one ate the top it can be a royal pain planing off the pellet (plug) Scrit

Door linings are often just built-up on site from planed stock to form the door rebates, although a timber yard should be able to supply either pre-machined lengths of stock or frame kits for standard size doors (e.g. 6ft 6in x 2ft 3in/2ft 6in with the housing joints ready cut). The tops of the...

If you can manage it scribe the wood to the coving using a coping saw. You may find it easier to make a thin hardboard or plywood template first before cutting the thicker boxing-in materials Scrit

12mm is a bit on the thin side, I'd have gone with 18mm and made sure that all the faces and edges were well sealed before installation. If you need it Hafele do sell a tensioning rod system for tall doors to prevent/correct this, but it only works with 18 to 22mm doors I believe Scrit

Most railway sleepers are now concrete, and when you see wooden sleepers for sale they are generally all the same length (2.6 metres) and they're often secondhand. About the only place I know of that does them new is "Railway Sleeper.com" in Notts. Frankly I think I'd try to get some recycled...

Never had a Nobex, but I did have an Ulmia, and about the only two makes you'll find in picture framers' are Ulmia and Nobex. Both have a good reputatiuon Scrit

You'll hate it - I do every time I'm forced to go........ But the meatballs are OK - if you like Swedish meatballs, that is :roll:

BA my desk is built on a trio of I-shaped end "legs" with a backbone and crossmembers. This is the same base that IKEA use on their own range of business desks but mine are non-standard sizes Scrit

I have to agree with Freddy. My home office has an L-shaped desk and all the "chassis" parts were purchased from IKEA, including the less than wonderful CPU bracket (but I won't talk about that here). The material for the top could be melamine-faced chipboard (MFC) or melamine-faced MDF (MF-MDF)...

The upper rails being at the same level are normally made using stub tenons, although not being through tenons they won't show. If you want to see both the upper tenons, then the suggestion I'd make would be to use a crossed bridle joint in the tops of the legs and notch-out the "tenons", thus...

Sounds like your boards are "dot-and-dabbed" (i.e. fixed to the wall an "blobs" of plasterboard adhesive). The second type will possibly work, although you will need to drill into the wall behind the void. I was trying to avoid any suggestions such as using Redidrivas (your "self-tapping"...